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Old 04-12-2015, 01:36 PM   #1
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Angry Electric motor on stablizer jacks has failed

Have a 2012 Sunset Trailer with front and rear stabilizers run by Lippert motors. The rear motor has failed, and it was impossible to put the stabilizer down with the provided handle. We want to remove the motors on the front and rear stabilizers and manually put the jacks up and down. The cost of replacing the motor is outrageous, and the trailer was only two years old when the motor failed.
Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone been able to manually put these stabilizers up and down? The dealer told us that it was too difficult to put the stabilizers up and down with the crank. The dealer estimated that it would cost $250 to remove the motors and stabilizers and another $200 to replace the stabilizers with manual ones. (PS: We are in the process of having the front cap replaced by CrossRoads since the paint faded. Has been in the shop 6 months now and have not gotten the trailer back yet)
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Old 04-12-2015, 02:19 PM   #2
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I'm not familiar with the electric stabilizer jacks , but I don't think it would be to difficult for you to take them off and put on manual jacks. If that is what you want.
The manual jacks just bolt onto the frame. Probably fit right where the electric ones are. If you can do the removal and the install of the new ones, you will save yourself quite a bit of money over what the dealer has quoted you.
Here is a link. Look it over. they have a lot of jacks that will do the job.

Leveling Scissor Jack - 24" Lift - 5,000 lbs Stromberg Carlson Trailer Jack JSC-24-IND

Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:06 PM   #3
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I don't have any help for your problem except to agree that it should not be difficult to do. If a shop will do it for $200 there can't be too much to it. Beyond that, I did want to share my experience with the electric stabilizer on our twice used Cruiser Aire. The third time out, they failed. I was able to use the manual crank to lower them and retract them when we started home. Every time I walked by our trailer after we got home I pressed the button...like I thought they might magically start working again. I had already made plans to use a cordless drill with an adapter like the manual one to raise and lower them rather than replace or look in various places for a reset button like some have done. Then one day, while passing by, I pushed the button and lo and behold, the magic happened. They worked. And they still do, but I am not holding my breath. I still anticipate using the drill and adapter. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:21 PM   #4
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sometimes you can clean electric motors using wd-40 or silicon spray. the fan in out house bathroom was howling and stalling out, I gave the rotors a shot of WD40 and she started running smoothly again. Same with the pre-ignition fan on the furnace, it was howling and complaining to I spritzed it with silicone spray it is now quiet and running. '

might be worth a shot
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:29 PM   #5
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I have an early 2013, and both my motors have failed last year. They made it exactly four months beyond the warranty then died.

I found that Lippert uses two motors for this unit. One is quality, one is cheaper. Both of mine had the cheap motors from India or Pakistan.

You'll probably need to unbolt the motors from the stabilizers in order to operate them by hand. This takes an Allen wrench and about 15 minutes. After that, they work great by hand. You should have a hand crank that came with your unit. They do work easy without the motors.

I bought one replacement motor used from my dealer. It was a takeoff from a guy who bent his stabilizers.

I bought the other one new from a U.S. manufacturer. You can do this repair yourself and save a few hundred dollars. The new (good quality) motor is like $150, if I recall correctly.
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:03 AM   #6
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Yes. You need to disengage the motor in order to use the manual crank

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Old 04-13-2015, 07:57 AM   #7
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The stabilizer jacks are bolted on and no problem to remove. I bent one leg about a year ago. Called Lippert to see if I could just buy the leg to replace it and was told no. I removed the entire mechanism, took it to a welding shop where the leg was heated and straightened. Other than having a little kink in the side rail the leg and jack work just fine. Total cost to fix was $80.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:14 AM   #8
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The jacks are pretty easy to get off. Just make sure you have an extra hand to hold it when you remove the bolts or use some blocking on the ends so it doesn't have far to drop. I've had to take mine off to get the underbelly down to do some work under the trailer. As for using them manually I have done that too and even though they offer a little more resistance when using the hand crank you should still be able to do it with out much of a problem.
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:42 PM   #9
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Tabacinski,

Have you looked to see which of the two motors you have installed on your stabilizers?

I did a little digging and it looks like Lippert might use two different motors. This diagram shows the higher end Klauber motor.parts diagram

However, this sheet shows that they also use the Prabha motor. Lip Sheet

The second sheet shows my trailer had the [cheaper] Prahba motors on mine according to the wire colors.

I ordered a replacement motor direct from Klauber. You have to email them the part number of what you want in order to place the order, and it isn't as easy as using a typical web-based sales system, but they are great to deal with and they shipped the motor immediately. They use UPS to collect payment COD. I think it cost me about $170 with shipping for the new motor.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:53 AM   #10
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I had the exact same issue. I bought a used 2012 in 2014 and one of the motors was toast when I bought it and the other one went out on our first night camping. I was able to remove the motors fairly easily. There were four small hex bolts on each motor. Two face inward and two face outward. They are a pain to get off since there is only clearance to get a half turn at a time with an allen wrench, but if your patient, you can remove both motors in about half an hour. I did break one of the bolts. After I got the motors off, the manual crank is pretty easy to use. I got one new motor for free from the dealer since it was out when I bought the camper, and the other one I bought directly from the manufacturer (Klauber Gear) for about half the price you can get it for online. But you have to call them on the phone and mail them a check. But I'm pretty sure they shipped it the same day they got my check. I think it was around $175. Its been about a year and I still haven't re-installed them. I think its faster to lower them manually and its not very hard.
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:17 PM   #11
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We just experienced an issue with our 25RB, its in its 3rd season. Last weekend the rear jacks had real problems. Something was really wrong the motor and sounded really bad......at least that's what we thought. We took it to the dealer and they did a quick check and found that a small "pin" had sheered off, in the mechanism, by the motor. They replaced it and it worked again. They said it was from retracting all the way up till it stopped where it hits (Clunks) into place. I really don't know if that's the real cause. But what ever this little pin does, is pretty important.


Just something else to look out for and consider.
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Old 07-18-2015, 07:57 AM   #12
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The dealer is correct on that.
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:13 AM   #13
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When we did our PDI we were told to bring them up until it "clunky" so should we stop before it gets to the top? Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:58 PM   #14
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I always stop before the clunky. Stop by visual that they're "almost" fully retracted.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidandJennifer View Post
When we did our PDI we were told to bring them up until it "clunky" so should we stop before it gets to the top? Thanks for the help!
Yea, that's the same thing we were told to. But this apparently has now changed and they don't want to put them up till they clunk. Stop just before.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:43 AM   #16
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Thanks for the info - we will stop short from now on!
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:58 PM   #17
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Am I correct in saying they are stabilizers - not jacks ?

meaning don't lift the rv with them just use them to stop the bounce ?
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboytoo View Post
Am I correct in saying they are stabilizers - not jacks ?

meaning don't lift the rv with them just use them to stop the bounce ?
That is correct. They aren't intended to "Lift" the RV, just stabilize
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Old 07-20-2015, 05:24 PM   #19
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One of my motors went out late last year, just after warranty expired. I tell you, they are very low quality, non repairable motors. And if they go out you can not crank the levelers up or down by hand with the little crank rod....you need to remove the motor then they crank easy.
I made a drill bit from an old socket using a grinder, Now the drill does it so fast and easy, I think I may remove the other motor, before it too craps out and leaves me stuck!
I actually wish I had just the 4 individual corner stabilizers that cranked down manually. Not the scissors style. I do not think the scissor style work anywhere near as well as the individual corner ones did/do.
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnsunset View Post
I made a drill bit from an old socket using a grinder, Now the drill does it so fast and easy,
Most dealers sell the socket meant for use with a drill. I think it is like 6 bucks at Amazon.
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