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Old 08-31-2015, 07:22 AM   #1
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1st electrical issue

After three months my back is well enough for us to go out last week end. This is the longest this unit has ever set. Over memorial day the battery went bad 6 years old was time. but it did boil dry. Fast forward. Had a electrical small coming out of a light switch, and not hot water either electric or gas. went a bought a new switch, and circuit board installed both. No change. Replace the new board with the old board. about 45 minutes the over head lights suddenly came on tried the hot water heater works on gas only. after a little while got a electrical smell coming from the area of the fuse box.,, All Fuses are good no breakers are thrown. Turned off the over head lamps smell went away. Is it possible the battery took out the inverter also , and this is causing the problems
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:30 AM   #2
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Frank, I don't think you have an inverter. I believe you mean converter don't you?
Did you check to see if it was putting any charge to the battery?
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:36 AM   #3
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Yes seems to
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:39 AM   #4
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I know that you are an old hand at this, but have you checked to make sure you didn't accidently hook the battery up backwards?
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:29 AM   #5
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Check three times, but will check once more
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:56 AM   #6
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Sounds to me that on/after the memorial day event, the converter put out high voltage trying to charge a dead battery. When that happened, it might have "fried" some electrical connections, (usually at wire nuts) giving you those electrical "smells." Triple-check the battery connections, then open/inspect every 12v electrical connector you can find.
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:27 PM   #7
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Hope you find your issue and it will be an easy fix. In case you end up needing a new board, Here is the cheapest I found when I thought my converter was bad.
WFCO WF8955MBA WF-8955MBA 55 Amp RV Trailer Power Center Main Board Assembly Camper Trailer RV

Also good to hear your back is on the mend and getting better.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:55 PM   #8
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Frank,

It is possible the converter has failed. If it is on a dedicated breaker, then turn the converter off. If it shares a breaker, then still shut it off( but realize that some other 110V appliance will also be shut off). Make sure the battery is good and fully charged, then hook up a good automotive battery charger directly to the battery terminals. Now check operation of all the 12V circuits, one at a time.

While usually a bad converter will put out too little voltage, I have seen a converter fail and put out as much as 24V DC. Either case will cause havoc with all of the 12 V circuits and the new battery as well. And since the control boards for the air conditioner, water heater, etc are all 12V, even 110V appliances will be affected.
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:02 PM   #9
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Another method at looking at the output of the converter is to check the voltage while it should be charging the battery. If you have a good digital meter also switch it to AC and check the voltage again. You should have very little AC ripple. If you see over a 1/2 of a volt there are bad capacitors and possibly diodes failing in the converter.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:54 PM   #10
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My converter was pulled out to check out on the work bench. The reason why my 12 volts lamps barely glowed and flickered. Testing 12 volts. Yep I had it but as soon as you put a load on it nope. It was bad. My desision was toss my wefco and put a 50 amp boon docker converter in. Made in USA 3 year warrenty .
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:19 PM   #11
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To most of the other's points, check the voltage first, both with shore power and battery power. Get a volt/ohm meter...vom. Even the Harbor Freight giveaways work fine.
Ensure you see approx both 12v and 110v accordingly at appropriate circuits.
Electrical smell is caused normally by heat from resistance. Usually the converter isn't too far from the fuse box and that's where the smell could be coming from.
Once you know you have proper voltage readings, I'd turn all breakers off and start with one at a time, checking each circuit.
You can go to the next step if less then 10amp draw and also check each circuit for a high draw, hence more heat and higher resistance.
If not the converter, then it's a process of elimination.
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:13 PM   #12
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Frank, what have you found out?
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:48 PM   #13
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Have not had a chance to go look at it I will this week end
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:52 AM   #14
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Went to the unit today, found a wire going to the fuse badly burned. It looks as if corrsion set in. Does any one have any idea of the gauge, and can I wire nut an extension on it???
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:01 AM   #15
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Frank, can you be more specific? What wire? What fuse? Single strand wire ?
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:08 AM   #16
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Frank, a general comment about splices. Yes, use the same gauge wire or larger. A wire nut extension will work to get you home, but in this high-current application, you're asking for problems. The best answer is to replace the entire wire, end to end. If that is not possible, you can make a splice, but make sure it is soldered. I prefer an intertwining splice for strength, soldered through and through for connection and corrosion resistance, covered in rubber tubing, and then taped.
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:10 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartyinSC View Post
Frank, a general comment about splices. Yes, use the same gauge wire or larger. A wire nut extension will work to get you home, but in this high-current application, you're asking for problems. The best answer is to replace the entire wire, end to end. If that is not possible, you can make a splice, but make sure it is soldered. I prefer an intertwining splice for strength, soldered through and through for connection and corrosion resistance, covered in rubber tubing, and then taped.
Good post!! Excellent explanation.
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartyinSC View Post
Frank, a general comment about splices. Yes, use the same gauge wire or larger. A wire nut extension will work to get you home, but in this high-current application, you're asking for problems. The best answer is to replace the entire wire, end to end. If that is not possible, you can make a splice, but make sure it is soldered. I prefer an intertwining splice for strength, soldered through and through for connection and corrosion resistance, covered in rubber tubing, and then taped.
Agree with Lloyd as a very good post. Boy that shrink tubing sure makes it nice these days.
The only thing I'd add would be to ensure you get a good, hot solder joint. Get the splice warm and let the solder melt from the warm wires, not from the soldering gun.
Cold solder joints are prone to failure and or poor continuity. Not a good thing when you need it.
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