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03-21-2010, 11:27 AM
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#1
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 65
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I have a black tank valve that will not open. I think the cable has come loose from the valve gate but do not know. I will be taking it in as a warranted item. As for the underbelly fabric, is the proper way to get access to the valve is to remove the fabric by unscrewing all aroundand rolling up rather than cutting the area and then patching with tape and adhesive?
Any experiences with this are appreciated.
__________________
NC Retiree
Preston, Retired Army (1995}
2010 CF27RLX being towed by a 2005 F350 dually 6.0 Powerstroke, automatic FX4, Airlift Airbags, Reese 15K Hitch
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03-21-2010, 11:45 AM
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#2
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 164
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Ask the repair facility if they will remove the side they need to work on. My guess is they won't as it's warrenty work and they want to get it done as quick as possible with aslittle labor. I had some repairs done last fall and the repair shop cut numerous holes to access different points. I wasn't thrilled but was told if I was going to pay extra labor costs they would be more than happy to oblige. They did patch the repair holes with tape that looks similar to the underbelly material. I guess I'll see how it holds up after dragging the rv down the highways.Good luck with your repair.
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03-21-2010, 02:42 PM
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#3
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Retiree
I have a black tank valve that will not open. I think the cable has come loose from the valve gate but do not know. I will be taking it in as a warranted item. As for the underbelly fabric, is the proper way to get access to the valve is to remove the fabric by unscrewing all aroundand rolling up rather than cutting the area and then patching with tape and adhesive?
Any experiences with this are appreciated.
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The quality of workI have received from my dealer is very poor. For something like your problemI would fix it myself. My dealer is 40 miles from my home. After figuring 160 miles on my diesel PU and over a days time transporting the trailer to the dealer I do not take small problems in for warranty work. The belly is not that difficult to lower. If they cut the fabric you will have some large taped areas that probably will not hold for more than a couple years.
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03-21-2010, 11:59 PM
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#4
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location:
Posts: 194
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Had a similar problem. My valve would not close all the way.
I preferred to do the work myself and it wasn't that bad. I had to remove about 15 of the screws that hold the trim strips on. The trim strips then hold the plastic barrier on. Taking the plastic off is a lot easier that getting it back on however neither is a real problem.
After that, getting to and repairing the valve is very easy. Empty the black tank as much as possible before removing the valve and it will be a lot cleaner job.
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03-22-2010, 01:42 AM
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#5
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 393
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When I put thebelly cover back I usedgorilla tape to hold it in place untilI could replace the dozen or more scews I had to remove. The tape gives you something to pull on to tighten the cover. On the front where I was concerned water could get between the cover and the trailer I used carpet tape between the cover and trailer. Then replaced the metal strip.
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03-22-2010, 03:53 AM
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#6
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location:
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyer
When I put thebelly cover back I usedgorilla tape to hold it in place untilI could replace the dozen or more scews I had to remove. The tape gives you something to pull on to tighten the cover. On the front where I was concerned water could get between the cover and the trailer I used carpet tape between the cover and trailer. Then replaced the metal strip.
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Great idea! why didn't you tell me about that yesterday?
Does the Gorilla tape really stick tight to the plastic? They cut my plastic a little short on the front and I may go back and reinforce it with the tape.
The holes on the plastic barrier get enlarged a little so I would suggest to use a layer of this tape to reinforce the edge of the plastic before re installation.
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03-22-2010, 07:44 AM
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#7
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pulpwood007
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyer
When I put thebelly cover back I usedgorilla tape to hold it in place untilI could replace the dozen or more scews I had to remove. The tape gives you something to pull on to tighten the cover. On the front where I was concerned water could get between the cover and the trailer I used carpet tape between the cover and trailer. Then replaced the metal strip.
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Great idea! why didn't you tell me about that yesterday?
Does the Gorilla tape really stick tight to the plastic? They cut my plastic a little short on the front and I may go back and reinforce it with the tape.
The holes on the plastic barrier get enlarged a little so I would suggest to use a layer of this tape to reinforce the edge of the plastic before re installation.
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The Gorilla tape was used only to get things back in place. Over time the Gorilla tape will come off. But until then it does stick like a gorilla. They make a special tape(a little pricey) for pernament repairs. Most RV supply houses should have it. On tears I use the Gorilla on the inside of the belly cover to hold things in place. Then apply the special tape on the outside to make a waterproof repair.
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04-20-2010, 02:34 AM
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#8
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Nova Scotia Can
Posts: 198
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I had a similar problem with myGalleyGrey water valve. I posted the "fix" on the forum undeer Leaking Grey water valve. To summarize - it takes a lot of patience, a few simple tools. I also installed a third valve near the end of the sewer system. This provides a positive stop against any of the other valves leaking by - plus - it is eay to get at. I bought the extra valve from an RV dealership - you will need: the valve kit, hack-saw, glue, sandpaper - and a screwdriver - in my case, I believe it was #2 Robertson. As for getting at the leaking valve, please see the earlier post (I believe it was late July 09).
Good Luck.....
__________________
Roselyn and Darrell
2007.5 Silverado LT/EFI Live Tuned Duramax/6Spd Allison/Banks Ram Air with Super Scoop/Edge CTS Gauges/Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 Ultimate Air Springs
2014 335ss Cruiser Provincial
Retired Navy
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04-20-2010, 08:20 AM
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#9
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 65
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Darrell:
Thanks for sharing your experience and advice. I did take my 2010 Cruiser in under warrantee to fix the pull cable on the black tank. They fixed it so it pulls but now it leaks so I thought I would go under it and try to fix myself rather than drive the unit 1.5 hours to the dealer. The idea of the screw on valve from CW I thought was particularly good.
__________________
NC Retiree
Preston, Retired Army (1995}
2010 CF27RLX being towed by a 2005 F350 dually 6.0 Powerstroke, automatic FX4, Airlift Airbags, Reese 15K Hitch
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04-20-2010, 09:27 AM
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#10
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Washington
Posts: 591
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For those who have worked on the valves .... do they have the four screws you can remove, slide the valve out and replace the seals (o rings).
thanks
george
__________________
George and Debi
2006 F250 PSD, 2005 PF30CK
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