Junction box under the slide

Jfelswick · 04-09-2019, 06:26 PM

Hi!! We have a 2019 33SI TT with 50 amp service and have had lots of electrical issues some of which were repaired at the dealership under warranty. Our kitchen island GFCI tripped and wouldn’t reset so we replaced it only to have the same thing happen. I have read to check the box under the slide for water but don’t know where this is as the underneath is all enclosed?! Any suggestions appreciated

**dagst1** · 04-09-2019, 06:48 PM

In your other post you said that you thought the microwave caused the main breaker to trip. Now you have GFCI problems. The 50 amp breaker is the main and if the microwave tripped it and not the branch breaker which should be 15 or 20 amp max you have a big problem. Just my thinking since it is a 2019 and still under warranty it needs to back to the dealer. If they cant fix it try another dealer. Tripping the main breaker with nothing on is dangerous and nothing to mess around with. Just my 2 cents.

**mark5w** · 04-09-2019, 07:15 PM

Check for a junction box under the slide. It sometimes fills with water and trips the GFCI.

builditguy · 04-09-2019, 07:39 PM

It’s a 2019. Take it back and get it fixed.
End of discussion. You don’t need to be poking around under there. IT’S A 2019.

Take this with a good tone. No disrespect intended.

It’s a 2019.

OhioMark · 04-10-2019, 10:59 AM

All good advice, even the more candid comments are spot on. Electrical issues in a trailer are not only frustrating but possibly dangerous. Like kill you dangerous.

I'm only adding to Mark's comment here to let you know I've had two trailers with GFIs tripping..replaced them 2x and ended up with the issue being the junction box under the slide causing a the short. However it could be anywhere going all the way to the post. I've had a a hidden, inline broken ground on my power cord and I was literally getting zapped stepping on the aluminum threshold into the camper.

Just find a shop that can do the warranty work. Might be a two dollar fix, but it could be much more serious which you don't want be be fussing with anyways.

My money's on the box not being sealed properly out the door.

**mark5w** · 04-10-2019, 06:24 PM

The idea of posting question on here is to get a possible answer. That's what being provided, possible answers. If we just answer with "take it back to the dealer" then it is a waste of time for the op to even ask the question and for us to provide possible causes. Many have experienced the same issues and are giving their information on how they found and fixed the problem.

There are many on here that have the skill and knowledge to fix problems themselves. So rubber stamping any question with "take it back to the dealer" means nothing to them.

But if there is any doubt, and mean ANY doubt, to their ability to find and fix the problem then take it back to the dealer.

OhioMark · 04-11-2019, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark5w

The idea of posting question on here is to get a possible answer. That's what being provided, possible answers. If we just answer with "take it back to the dealer" then it is a waste of time for the op to even ask the question and for us to provide possible causes. Many have experienced the same issues and are giving their information on how they found and fixed the problem.

There are many on here that have the skill and knowledge to fix problems themselves. So rubber stamping any question with "take it back to the dealer" means nothing to them.

But if there is any doubt, and mean ANY doubt, to their ability to find and fix the problem then take it back to the dealer.

I hear ya Mark, my blood boils everytime I had to drag my brand new unit back because of missing parts/shoddy work that I could have fixed in my driveway but ..I can't speak for the others, however I responded based on the following critiera:

It is a brand new trailer
It has had electrical issues already
It is under factory warranty
It is a 110v issue
The short in my trailers were only found after replacing outlets and pulling the entire underbelly apart.

Lastly anything I've touched and attempted to repair is just another headache when I've ended up going back to the dealership and have to argue a warranty claim. Just my experience.

**mark5w** · 04-11-2019, 03:52 PM

Mark, I see your point. If you screw it up and then take it back to dealer to fix it, you put yourself into a situation where they may not fix it under warranty.

I've made fixes to the rv myself, but when it was above my comfort level or knowing it will be covered under extended warranty I took it in for dealer to work on.

OhioMark · 04-11-2019, 04:37 PM

Yep. I was one of the victims of severe oxidation on our front cap. We were able to claim it under warranty however the service guy said we would have been out of luck had we try to buff it out or use one of the DIY tricks. It was a $2300 warranty claim. I found out the bigger claims require a rep to review do even if your service folks are reasonable the rep has the final say.

OllieNorthie · 04-18-2019, 02:50 PM

Here’s a picture of what happened to me. Very dangerous wiring in a CF26RK 2010 model. Happened last year.

Be aware of potentially dangerous wiring! This is the 30 amp cable entry junction box.

cliffw42 · 04-18-2019, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OllieNorthie

Here’s a picture of what happened to me. Very dangerous wiring in a CF26RK 2010 model. Happened last year.

Be aware of potentially dangerous wiring! This is the 30 amp cable entry junction box.

Same here with a 2007 Cruiser CF30SK (so it's not a new, or unique problem). Fortunately, I had read on this forum about several folks having the same problem, so it was fairly easy to find the problem (not so easy re-wiring/re-placing burned wiring.)

Jfelswick · 04-18-2019, 04:13 PM

Thank you to all that have replied.... I wish it was as easy as “taking it back to the dealer” and we certainly will as we can. We travel for work right now and the closest dealer is several hundred miles away!! The junction box was wet and is ordered to be replaced

OllieNorthie · 04-18-2019, 04:50 PM

Agreed, fortunately there was just enough Romeo to reach the new box installed, Had to chew up a cabinet wall to do so though.

**Lloyd** · 04-18-2019, 06:46 PM

When you tore into it, what did you find to be the cause of that thing shorting out like that?
Kind of hard to tell in the picture as to where it shorted out first.

TerryH · 04-18-2019, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jfelswick

Hi!! We have a 2019 33SI TT with 50 amp service and have had lots of electrical issues some of which were repaired at the dealership under warranty. Our kitchen island GFCI tripped and wouldn’t reset so we replaced it only to have the same thing happen. I have read to check the box under the slide for water but don’t know where this is as the underneath is all enclosed?! Any suggestions appreciated

Have you seen a cord under main chassis going to the slide; may have to slide under under w/ slide out? (auto repair creeper helps) I agree you need to know where this potential problem j-box is located (for future reference), but maybe You need to let the dealer do the repair, in case there are factory authorized changes/ TSBs, Recalls, etc. Make them show you where the problem was and clarify what the repair action taken was?

Golfreb · 04-19-2019, 04:21 AM

Had similar issue with kitchen slide on Sunset Trail. Peeled down the belly covering and there were 3 plastic connectors connecting house type romex electric cables to extension cord type cables that can flex with slide movement. Opened each one and put some dielectric grease on each lug and put them back together. No issues since.

OllieNorthie · 04-19-2019, 07:02 AM

Lloyd, I believe at least one wire nut connection was poorly connected resulting in a high resistance splice that over time became so bad it heated up and fried.

It didn’t appear to be a short against anything. Breakers never tripped, power just ultimately went out. It was a lot of fun tracking it down.

I replaced the wire nut connectors with a terminal block in a new junction box. Never going through that safety hazard/ inconvenience again!

**Lloyd** · 04-19-2019, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OllieNorthie

Lloyd, I believe at least one wire nut connection was poorly connected resulting in a high resistance splice that over time became so bad it heated up and fried.

It didn’t appear to be a short against anything. Breakers never tripped, power just ultimately went out. It was a lot of fun tracking it down.

I replaced the wire nut connectors with a terminal block in a new junction box. Never going through that safety hazard/ inconvenience again!

Thanks for the reply.
Terminal block is the more secure, but I don't see anything wrong with wire nut connectors either. IF, they are tightened appropriately. I like to tape mine afterwards. Starting on the wire and going right up over the connectors. I think it helps hold them more secure and gives less chance of moving/loosening.

**dagst1** · 04-19-2019, 07:56 AM

On my cruiser the power cord goes straight into the converter. No junction box. Can you do that and eliminate the junction box? Is it a long distance from the junction box to the converter? Just trying to understand the need for the junction box instead of going straight to the converter.

**Lloyd** · 04-19-2019, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dagst1

On my cruiser the power cord goes straight into the converter. No junction box. Can you do that and eliminate the junction box? Is it a long distance from the junction box to the converter? Just trying to understand the need for the junction box instead of going straight to the converter.

I see he's got a 26RK which is what I have. My power cord comes in on the rear street side corner. Converter is across the trailer by the door. (curb side) Which is about midway.

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