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Old 05-22-2011, 07:08 AM   #1
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- I just brought my '07 Cruiser 27RL home from its winter hideaway to get it ready for her first trip of the 2011 season.

- It started with what I chalked up to be a dead battery at the storage lot and when I got it home, everything seemed fine after I plugged it in to the house power.



- I left it for a couple of hours to do some other things around the house, and then decided to go out and open the slide, open some windows, and air her out a bit.



- This is where the trouble started...the slide wouldn't go out, there was no power?!?!

- There was no power on the "Control Panel" either?!!?

- I couldn't even show power on my Hot Water switch!?!?

- Even my leveller's worked?!?!



- Yet, when I flipped any of the light switches, they all came one?!?!?



- I checked the fuse panel, and everything was fine.



- What am I missing here folks??

- All help and input is appreciated!Edited by: MONTE1214
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:17 AM   #2
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Battery is stone dead and drawing all the power.
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:25 AM   #3
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- I wondered about that. but wouldn't the house power take over once it's plugged in?
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:57 AM   #4
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- Just to add, I had my battery on one of those "smart" chargers all winter, and it worked fineto raise my landing gear about amonth ago when I took the RV in to get it's wheel bearings and brakes checked.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:13 AM   #5
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I would start with checking the fuses on the power converter.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:21 AM   #6
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- All those fuses are ok.

- There's about six 15a and a couple of 40a.

- I just checked the battery too, and it's showing 13.65v.



- Like I said...the leveller's work, the lights are working, but the control panel is not lighting, the water heater lightis not lighting and of course, the slider don't work?



- A true electrical gremlin here.

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Old 05-22-2011, 10:31 AM   #7
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The 13.65 volts on the battery is from the converter charge. Disconnect shore power and turn on several lights and see if the battery holds around 12.6 volts. Thats where a good battery should be if fully charged and it shouldn't drop to much as you increase the load for a while.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:44 AM   #8
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- All the lights on, it was at 12.4v.

- I even turned on the landing gear, and it only went down to 12.2v.



- If it was "just" my slide, I'd be suspicious of the motor being burntout, but because it's the slide AND the control panel AND the water heater switch, I'm thinking there must be a fuse hidden somehwhere??



Edited by: MONTE1214
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:10 AM   #9
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Could be a mouse damage. They love crewing on wires.



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Old 05-22-2011, 11:57 AM   #10
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- Would that not short out wires and pop a fuse?

- I guess I'll have to pull my cabinet apart where the control panel is.



- Just hoping it's something else, that someone on here will pick up on.Edited by: MONTE1214
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:37 PM   #11
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bump
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:30 PM   #12
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Did you check the in line fuse near the battery

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Old 05-22-2011, 11:26 PM   #13
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- Yeah, it's good.

- I'm just heading out now to pulll the cabinet that houses the switches apart and see what's up.

- She'll be going to teh dealer this afternoon, if the problem doesn't jump out and hit me in the face.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:29 AM   #14
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The water heater is 120V and will not work off the batteries. The slides are 12V and should work off the battery assuming that it is in good condition. You need to look at this as two separate problems since the water heater is 120V and the slides are 12V. The two systems are totally different. I'm still not that familiar with camper construction, but I would imagine that you can get access to the point where the 12V wires connect to the motor for the slider. If you can, you can put a voltmeter or one of those lighted voltage detectors across the connections and have someone operate the switch. You should see voltage at the motor. The other problem is 120V. Check to see if the water heater is fused independently.



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Old 05-23-2011, 05:59 AM   #15
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- Sorry for the confusion...I meant the water heater switch on up in the control panel.

- I don't get a light when I flip either of the switches.

- I don't have anything lighting up on my "levels" control panel either?



- I've conceded and took the trailer to the experts this morning.

- I'll have to see what they say tomorrow.



- Thanks for all of the help here folks! I'll be sure to post what the issues was.



- I've gota funny feeling that those little bastards have gotten in and chewed thru some stuff.

Edited by: MONTE1214
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:16 PM   #16
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Monte, On your water heater the light only comes on if you do have a problem. It is not like the old models where the light came on when they were working. You do need a good 12 volt source however to operate the controller for gas or 120 volta/c operation. It is like the refrigerator, the frig operates on gas or 120 a/c,but it must have a good 12 vDC source to operate the electronic controller.



To check the water heater tosee if it works, turn it on gas. If it lights off you will hear it. Then turn it to electric and put your ear near the outside vent cover. You should be able to hear the electric heater make a sizzling sound.



My first thought on your discription was bad battery, but if your can runall the lights for an hour or two and the landing gear WHENYOU ARENOT PLUGGED TO THESHORE POWER ORYOUR TRUCK then that probablyis not the problem. May be a faulty ground some where in the panel area.
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:48 AM   #17
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- I just got home from camping all weekend, and thought I'd post up what went wrong...

- The dealership called me on Thursday, and said that they had found the problem.
- They had good news, and bad news though.
- The good news was that I was going to have the trailer in time to go out for a weekend at the lake!
- The bad news was that it took 4hrs at $90/hr to locate the problem!
- The tore my belly pan off, and traced all the wires, and couldn't find any "bites" from critters.
- Another tech happened to came by and asked if they had checked the battery, and they said that they were looking for mouse damage. (as per my thoughts)

- Well...it turns out that after having this trailerfor the last 4 years, I hooked the 1 of the 3 wores up wrong when putting the battery in this Spring!!!
- So, it's all my fault, and my wallet is $400 lighter because of it!

- I never thought I needed to "tag" the wires going to the battery, but they're labelled now!

- I want to thank everyone for their insight to this, and that it took a different set of eyes to realize the problem.
- Even the tech working on it, never checked the battery because he was looking for mouse damage.

- I managed to get away Friday morning, and had a great 2 nights with my wife and friends which helped heal the $400 dent!

Edited by: MONTE1214
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:42 AM   #18
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Glad to hear you got it fixed, sorry 'bout the $400, expensive lesson, eh?
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:28 AM   #19
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Glad to hear you found a simple solution. I have a problem with my water heater. I do not have any power to the switch, or at least enough to fire up the water heater. I have a electronic Gas/electric Atwood 10 gallon heater. I got it to work by jumping a wire from a light over the sink that I knew was hot. When I jump it to the switch, I get the gas to fire and it heats fine. I would like to know if anybody else had this problem? I have a screw in element and maybe I need to replace the element? Any comments would be nice, thanks.
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:39 PM   #20
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Check your 12 v fuses and 120v breaker. You can verify element status with a clamp on amp meter if you have one. Elements are available at most Ace Hardware. Be sure to get the 1500W 120v one. From what little you have written, I would guess your issue is not the element.
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