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Old 10-25-2013, 10:39 PM   #1
JRC
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Location: Oklahoma
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I know, I know, the PDI was supposed to be informative and I would ask all the questions thatI needed to askand I would go home knowing it all. That is if I thought to askALL of the questions.

Winterization of my trailer is complete for the year. Ihad been on a quest to find the water heater bypass valve. I found that I had to remove the panel that forms the back wall of the storage compartment to reach it.

For me, that's cramming my old (nearly 70 yr) body into the storage compartment and removing 21 screws while rolling from side to side, etc. I thought thatIhad heard someone else say they removed two screws for access to their bypass valve.

I'mconsidering the installation ofan access panel in the wall of the storage compartment.

I have the Atwood 10 gal W/H in my 3612 and would appreciateany input.

Thanks in advance.


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Old 10-26-2013, 01:52 AM   #2
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I know the Cruisers are different design but still based on a similar 5th wheel frame. We have a panel with 4 screws in the front pass through storage compartment just behind the inside control centre (black/grey valves and water hookup, etc.) that allows access to the water heater. There should be a simpler access to the area where the water heater is located. I'm actually surprised there isn't something there, almost sounds like they forgot to put in a panel.

In the picture below, the hose reel is mounted to the factory access panel in my Cruiser. A little hard to see but provides easy access to the hot water heater bypass valves.

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Old 10-26-2013, 09:31 PM   #3
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Hi JR, My 70+ body couldn't deal with it either. In our Cruiser there are 2 valves, 1 that closes to prevent water from entering the heater and another that prevents water from leaving the heater. Look at the bottom line (fills) and a top line (hot water out). In our unit the exit valve is impossible to see so you have to feel for it on the back side of the line. I decide to remove the panel that blocks the access to the heater then cut out an 8" X 8" section right in front of the valve locations and remounted them with self closing hinges and pull knobs for opening. Because of the use of such flimsy paneling I had to reinforce the openings around the cut outs from the backside. Now I just open the door to reach in and turn the valves off and then back on. Just make sure the opening for the valve on the bottom gives you room to get the antifreeze fill line thru and into the jug. Hope this helps. Bruce
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:04 AM   #4
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Thanks for the advice guys. I have a water management
compartment that contains a rotary valve and connections for hoses. The rotary
valve has four positions. One is for <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal">“Normal”[/b]
which is used when drawing water from the tank. Then there is <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal">“City”[/b] for when the city water is hooked
up. Another position is <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight:normal">“Tank”[/b] which
is used to fill the fresh water tank from the city water connection. </span>And the last is Sanitize/Winterize which allows
the pump to pull antifreeze through the city water connection. The compartment
also contains the black water flush connection and the external shower hose and
wand. That is all that is in the relatively small compartment.

I’ve tried to include a picture but have failed on several
tries.

I think the answer to my problem will be to put an access
panel in the storage compartment wall to gain access to the water heater isolation
and bypass valves.

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Old 10-27-2013, 09:26 AM   #5
JRC
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Location: Oklahoma
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:22 AM   #6
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Last year when I winterized mine (same model as yours) I put that switch in theSanitize/Winterize and pulled the antifreeze through the system. The hot water heater is bypassed when you are in the</span>Sanitize/Winterize position. I just drained the hot water heater and I was done. </span>
</span>
I don't think there is any need in installing a bypass valve.</span>
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:05 AM   #7
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3
I have the 2014 Elevation also. I see that you mention when you place that valve in the "winterize" position, that it is also supposed to bypass the water heater.

I have done this and connected a hoze to my anti-freeze source. When I turned the pump on, it has already sucked in 2 gallons of anti-freeze and the pump is still running. None of the faucets are on, so I suspect it is filling the hot water heater...

How much anti-freeze did it suck in when you turn on the pump before the pump was up-to-pressure and would turn off?
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:53 AM   #8
JRC
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 8


I went to a dealer yesterday with a couple of warranty items and
discussed the winterizing process with him. I described the process that
bws1105 used. He wrinkled his brow and said he didn't think that was
correct but not all systems are the same. He doesn't carry the Elevation
line which may be important but he does carry some other Crossroads
products.

He outlined the process of selecting the Sanitize /
Winterize position on the rotary valve, then closing the isolation valve
and open the bypass valve behind the water heater after you drain it.
Then, using the city water connection and the pump, draw antifreeze into
the system until it comes out all of the faucets and toilet (don't
forget the outside shower).

Since I have the valves installed, I
guess I'll use them until I discover something different. My only
problem is access to them and hopefully an access panel will make life a
little easier.

The proof of the pudding for you may be that if
you drained your water heater before and it winds up with antifreeze in
it after a couple of gallons, then it needs the valves positioned as
discussed. I have a friend in SD that said his 2014 water heater valves
could be accessed removing a couple of screws. I'd suggest looking
underneath and in the storage compartment on the 2014 to see if that is
possible. The 2013 requires the removal of the panel wall in the storage
compartment to get to them.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:59 AM   #9
JRC
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I forgot to mention the low point drains. And I don't recall how many gallons went in before the pump would stop, but it eventually would. It seems that after draining the low point drains I had a lot of air in the system. As long as there was a lot of air, the pump seemed to keep running until later in the flushing process.
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:47 AM   #10
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3
Yes, I think I see the isolation valve handles when I look behind the storage panel.

Good Lord, one needs to be a contortionist just to access these panels. If you take the panel off inside the RV, underneath the entertainment system, then you need arms of about 6 feet in length to access them.

This is a HUGE design flaw in my opinion. The manufacturer should be ashamed. There isn't even any way to re-secure the storage comparment panel once it is loosened.

I still can't believe it is THIS complicated to access a couple of routinely needed valves. WHAT WERE THEY THINKING?!!!

But, I certainly do appreciate your prompt response and the helpfulness of the RV owners in this forum.
They really should begin reaching out to the owners on designs before releasing them to be manufactured.

Thank you,

Jon Roock
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:01 PM   #11
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Posts: 46
To be honest I don't remember how many gallons it took, but it was more
than 2, I want to say 4 total by the time I got to all of the faucets and the toilet. I think
it dis take it a while to fill the lines when using the pump.

What would be the purpose of having a winterizing/sanitize setting if it is not to bypass the hot water heater?



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Old 11-04-2013, 02:25 AM   #12
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Indianapolis
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I now believe the sole purpose of that winterization setting on the intake valve is to cause the system to draw-in liquid from the city water supply nozzle such as is the case when you are trying to introduce anti-freeze into the system. Otherwise, the pump will draw from the water tank if you don't have it in this setting.

I did end up having to temporarily remove the wall in the underbelly compartment to access the rear of the water heater. There I did find the two values I expected to see which allowed me to set the system into water-heater-bypass mode.

Again, I view this a major fail on the part of Crossroads for the following reasons:
1. The owners manual does not mention anything about the placement of these values
2. The design of this RV does not allow a way to access the valves short of disassembling part of the RV not meant to be disassembled.
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:42 AM   #13
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Sadly, most water heaters are hidden behind panels that you have to remove. On our cruiser I have to take a floor panelout of a cabinet and then remove the left wall panel of the cabinet to get to the by-pass valves. Solved problem by installing an access door in that wall panel. Dopey design.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:05 AM   #14
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What is the hole between the rotary valve and the fill hose connection and what does it do?
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:56 AM   #15
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Posts: 26
My guess is that its a tank vent. I'm actually looking at relocating the bypass and isolation valves into the basement The only other option I see for easy access is to redesign the stairs from the living room to the bedroom so that they are removable.
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