Replacing Remote Dump Valves

**dagst1** · 04-20-2022, 02:45 PM

I have a remote dump valve that needs replaced. It is very hard to pull open or push closed. My question is should I lube the cable while it is out - Replacing both cable and valve-- Any up or down side with pulling the cable apart and using either Silicone grease or white Lithium grease?

Also while the underbelly is down I am going to replace all 3 valves and cables.

RVCRUISER34 · 04-20-2022, 04:25 PM

I found my problem was not in the cable but the actual valve. Crud build up on the seal and slide valve. I replaced the gray and black water valve, since the underbelly was opened. I can't remember if I replaced both of the cables, I believe at least one of the valves came with a new cable. The larger black water valve seemed to be really binding. Like it was forced in to get it all lined with the other plumbing. I used a rubber slip fitting to take the pressure off.
What a difference and relief to work the valves now. I used to have to prop my shoulder against the side of the camper and pull my guts out, to get them opened. I tried the Valtara valve on the hose connection side for a while, as a quick fix. I always worried about it coming loose and dumping both tanks, I just wanted it right.

**dagst1** · 04-21-2022, 05:14 PM

This is our first camper with the remote valves so was not sure on greasing up the cables. Just thinking anything to help reduce the friction would be a plus.

**Lloyd** · 04-21-2022, 06:42 PM

I have never had to replace one. I do have one that pulls and pushes harder than I think it should. It's been that way since day one. I've sprayed different lubes down the end of it for years. Doesn't seem to get any worse------but doesn't seem to get any better either.

From everything I've read on the forum over the years, it seems as tho everybody that has dug into the problem has found the groove in the valve has had crude packed into it.
Just like RVCRUISER stated in his post.

**dagst1** · 04-21-2022, 07:17 PM

Guess I will found out tomorrow as the Mobil tech will be here around noon. He did recommend using Murphy's oil soap but it did not help. Although it did help some on the gray tank but not so much on the galley.

RVCRUISER34 · 04-22-2022, 06:58 AM

Lloyd is right, the groves get crude build up and the valve seal is a moving part on the paddle, swells and gets worn. My Cruiser Aire is a 2013 and we have been out, up to 100 Nites a year, so the valves get a workout. I've tried the quick fixes, maybe they slowed the process down but with a little effort, I have smooth easy pull valves now. Of course if I had to do it a second time, from what I know now, replacement would be a lot easier.

**mark5w** · 04-22-2022, 12:41 PM

There are quite a few products that may help.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rv+tank+v...l_6csahyzr73_e

Never used them, so I can't vouch for them.

I pour in some laundry softener. It seems to help. It softens the glue on wallpaper, so I imagine it loosen up the "stuff" around the valve seal. I buy the off brand softener. (I'm cheap

)

**dagst1** · 04-24-2022, 02:37 PM

Well it's done and I learned a few things. When replacing the valves go with the longest cable unless you can measure yours first. Two of mine were the standard 72" but one needed a 96" cable so the valve got replaced but not the cable. Yes it did not hurt to lubricate the cable while out -- The Mobile Tech actually did it without asking. Now to the cause of all this -- The Black valve was stuck.

Yes there was a very little amount of "stuff" but that was not the culprit. After it was removed it still took a great deal of force to move it so he took it apart and we discovered that the seal for the stem had become distorted and twisted and was binding up the shaft. It would pull out with some difficulty but was very difficult to push back in. So the new is is and works very smooth.

He did recommend using Murphy's Oil Soap a couple times a year to help with build up and to keep them operating smoothly.

KECoats · 04-28-2022, 03:42 PM

Had the same thing happen to me. Forced the black tank valve open and closed while away from home. Replaced it when I got home. Old one was binding on the rubber seal. Applied silicon grease all around the new valve seal and lubed the cable before installing. Has worked good for several years now.

On the road, I fill & flush the black tank three times when its dumped. Based on others experiences on this forum, I added the extra gate valve to the pipe connector where the sewer hose connects and silicon sealed it to the pipe so it is permanent. Use a clear 90 degree elbow to see what is coming out. By the third flush very little to no paper comes out. Also based on this forum, I then put two caps full of Calgon water softener in the tank and add about 3 gallons of water for the next go round. The sensors on the tank are pretty accurate because nearly all the toilet paper has been flushed out and we get no odors unless the overhead fantastic fan is sucking air up when the toilet valve is open.

Since getting home from snow-birding. I dumped the 3 tanks, added Rid-X to each and filled them up. In about 2 weeks, after the the microbes have done their work and hopefully eaten any groceries in the kitchen tank, the shower tank and the black tank I will dump them all, add some clorox and fill them again. Let them sit for a couple weeks, before draining them the final time. After that the drains and gate valves will be left open to let the water in the tanks evaporate. Surely they won't be factory clean, but close enough so that all the sensors will read empty.

Have occasionally aimed silicon spray down the toilet and down the shower drain and blew a bunch in, hoping it will attach to the gates and seals lubing them a bit. Your guess is as good as mine whether it actually does or not, but they aren't sticking anymore. Don't do the kitchen because it stays open all the time.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

toolman.dustin · 04-29-2022, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KECoats

Had the same thing happen to me. Forced the black tank valve open and closed while away from home. Replaced it when I got home. Old one was binding on the rubber seal. Applied silicon grease all around the new valve seal and lubed the cable before installing. Has worked good for several years now.

On the road, I fill & flush the black tank three times when its dumped. Based on others experiences on this forum, I added the extra gate valve to the pipe connector where the sewer hose connects and silicon sealed it to the pipe so it is permanent. Use a clear 90 degree elbow to see what is coming out. By the third flush very little to no paper comes out. Also based on this forum, I then put two caps full of Calgon water softener in the tank and add about 3 gallons of water for the next go round. The sensors on the tank are pretty accurate because nearly all the toilet paper has been flushed out and we get no odors unless the overhead fantastic fan is sucking air up when the toilet valve is open.

Since getting home from snow-birding. I dumped the 3 tanks, added Rid-X to each and filled them up. In about 2 weeks, after the the microbes have done their work and hopefully eaten any groceries in the kitchen tank, the shower tank and the black tank I will dump them all, add some clorox and fill them again. Let them sit for a couple weeks, before draining them the final time. After that the drains and gate valves will be left open to let the water in the tanks evaporate. Surely they won't be factory clean, but close enough so that all the sensors will read empty.

Have occasionally aimed silicon spray down the toilet and down the shower drain and blew a bunch in, hoping it will attach to the gates and seals lubing them a bit. Your guess is as good as mine whether it actually does or not, but they aren't sticking anymore. Don't do the kitchen because it stays open all the time.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

This is pretty similar to what I do. When I pull the trailer out to use I've found it difficult to move the valves because everything is all dried out. I read on one of the RV forums someone added about 10 oz of vegetable oil to each tank with the valves closed when he put the trailer in storage. I've been doing that for about a year and it makes a huge difference. The oil keeps the bottom edge of the gate valve lubed where all the crud builds up and I've had little problem since I started doing this.

KECoats · 04-29-2022, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toolman.dustin

This is pretty similar to what I do. When I pull the trailer out to use I've found it difficult to move the valves because everything is all dried out. I read on one of the RV forums someone added about 10 oz of vegetable oil to each tank with the valves closed when he put the trailer in storage. I've been doing that for about a year and it makes a huge difference. The oil keeps the bottom edge of the gate valve lubed where all the crud builds up and I've had little problem since I started doing this.

Great! Will add the vege oil when I close them up.
Where are you located in KS? I was born and raised in Plains, although I live in PA now.

toolman.dustin · 04-29-2022, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KECoats

Great! Will add the vege oil when I close them up.
Where are you located in KS? I was born and raised in Plains, although I live in PA now.

I grew up in Phillipsburg (19 years) but now live in Salina (20 years). Lived in Austin, TX for 20 yrs.

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