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Old 09-09-2012, 01:55 PM   #1
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We discovered, much to our dismay, a leak in our Zinger 24 ft sidewall section where the bottom side panel slid down and allowed water to seep in-between the aluminum panels and collecting in the underbelly of the trailer which became tight as a drum. It completely soaked the floor insulation.

By poking holes in the underbelly we released the pressure but can't get the insulation dried out again...

We do want to get rid of the trapped moisture and would like any and all suggestions

Question is what to do...

Does anyone have experience removing the plastic tarp-like underbelly and insulation
How to dry out the area affected...
Can "Coroplast", be used and how would you fasten it to the frame
What type of tape would you recommend to seal edges, joints etc..
Any and all suggestions, ideas, experience and much appreciated
Thank you in advance






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Old 09-09-2012, 11:48 PM   #2
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I would think you will have to drop the whole thing in order to get it dried out. If you look along the edges you will see where it's held up with metal strips and screws. If there is fiberglass insulation that got wet I would replace it. That isn't to expensive. You will probably have to get some fans going underneath moving air to get it dried out before attempting any repair.
As far as the coroplast, there has been some post on here where some of the members have used it, and with good results. I would think you would fasten it up the same way as whats on there now is fastened. Do a search on the forum for it.

Here is a link that might help you.
http://www.crossroadsrv.com/forum/fo...s.asp?TID=1645Edited by: Old Farmer
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:23 AM   #3
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Thank you for your comments and link provided... much appreciated.

We'll plan on starting the work today... we'll take and post some progress pictures.
I'm hopeful that someone on this forum with actual experience will provide additional helpful hints, ideas and suggestions.










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Old 09-10-2012, 04:06 AM   #4
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Getting the underbelly cover down isn't to bad. Putting it back on is tricky by yourself. If you have help it will not be a problem. I do not have any experience with Coraplast but I know it has been mentioned some years ago on the forum. I remember reading that some users where planning on replacing the factory belly cover with the Coraplast
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:55 AM   #5
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Thank you guys... we'll keep you posted and updated with our findings of solving this soggy mess





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Old 09-10-2012, 12:46 PM   #6
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Today's progress to fix water collected in the underbelly of our 24 ft Zinger...
First we blocked and secured the wheels up about 5" and jacked the bow of the trailer up as high as possible to provide work room.
A tarp was spread on the ground to make sliding under the trailer a little easier
Next a storage bin was placed below the area where the cut was going to be made to collect and inspect the water as well as the fiberglass insulation rubbish
Once and material was cut water ran out freely... increasing the cut allowed to pull out the soaking wet insulation in sheets.
Fortunately the localized "leak", caused by the aluminum bottom side panel to sag down and form a tiny, hardly noticeable 2 ft long crack between the first and second aluminum sheet which allowed water to penetrate and collect inside in only one section (between steel members) of the underbelly. The leak occurred immediately next to the storage door with water collecting directly below.
By cutting 3 fist size holes in the underbelly plastic we were able to gently pull out the insulation and allowed to grope around for any wetness. By inserting a towel the residue water was removed followed by using a shop vacuum in reverse, (blowing instead of sucking) the area was dried out. We'll leave the are open until tomorrow. The plan is to use Tuck-tape to seal the cuts that were made. Experts suggested that few tape type materials will adhere well to polyethylene...
Just to make sure we checked availability of "Coroplast", sheeting at Home Depot. FYI Home Depot indeed carries a selection of 3/16" 4m/m 4x8 sheets and smaller sizes in clear and white. Black or other color is a special order. Cost is $16.50 per 4x8 ft sheet. The material will do well, has a limited insulating value and will need to be intermittent supported to structural component between the steel members. It would definitely my choice of materials if I had to replace part or the entire underbelly.

Here are some photo's of today's rogress





















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Old 09-10-2012, 12:56 PM   #7
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Sorry guys... can't seem to get the photo's taken today transferred from Shutterfly to this site
Can someone please outline the procedure... thanks in advance




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Old 09-11-2012, 01:59 AM   #8
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I had a leak a couple of years ago into my underbelly. I sliced it open in an H pattern in a couple of spots between the frame members. Pulled out the soggy fiberglass, washed the underside of the floor with a bleach solution (there was some mold beginning to form). Then let it dry open to the air for a couple of weeks. Replaced the batt insulation, and then taped it back up. My local dealer was gracious enough to give me some underbelly tape to seal it up. I think it was called Flex Mend. It was probably somewhere between 4-6" wide with a peel-able backing that made it easy to get lined up. It really sticks well. I did it alone, but it would have definitely been easier with more hands.



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Old 09-11-2012, 07:58 AM   #9
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That's some wonderful tape your dealer gave you. I have some of the same stuff. It's really pliable and sticks like crazy. People rave about gorilla tape, but I think this stuff has got it beat six ways ta Sunday.



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Old 09-11-2012, 08:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeil
Sorry guys... can't seem to get the photo's taken today transferred from Shutterfly to this site
Can someone please outline the procedure... thanks in advance



I use http://photobucket.com/ You have to join, then upload your photos to them, then you can bring them over to the forum and post.
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