Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-09-2012, 02:55 PM   #1
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 10
We discovered, much to our dismay, a leak in our Zinger 24 ft sidewall section where the bottom side panel slid down and allowed water to seep in-between the aluminum panels and collecting in the underbelly of the trailer which became tight as a drum. It completely soaked the floor insulation.

By poking holes in the underbelly we released the pressure but can't get the insulation dried out again...

We do want to get rid of the trapped moisture and would like any and all suggestions

Question is what to do...

Does anyone have experience removing the plastic tarp-like underbelly and insulation
How to dry out the area affected...
Can "Coroplast", be used and how would you fasten it to the frame
What type of tape would you recommend to seal edges, joints etc..
Any and all suggestions, ideas, experience and much appreciated
Thank you in advance






Zeil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 12:48 AM   #2
Site Team
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: WI.
Posts: 7,688


I would think you will have to drop the whole thing in order to get it dried out. If you look along the edges you will see where it's held up with metal strips and screws. If there is fiberglass insulation that got wet I would replace it. That isn't to expensive. You will probably have to get some fans going underneath moving air to get it dried out before attempting any repair.
As far as the coroplast, there has been some post on here where some of the members have used it, and with good results. I would think you would fasten it up the same way as whats on there now is fastened. Do a search on the forum for it.

Here is a link that might help you.
http://www.crossroadsrv.com/forum/fo...s.asp?TID=1645Edited by: Old Farmer
__________________
2008 Cruiser CF26RK
2013 Ford Eco-Boost
Heavy duty payload - Max tow
Lloyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 04:23 AM   #3
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 10


Thank you for your comments and link provided... much appreciated.

We'll plan on starting the work today... we'll take and post some progress pictures.
I'm hopeful that someone on this forum with actual experience will provide additional helpful hints, ideas and suggestions.










Zeil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 05:06 AM   #4
Seasonal Camper
 
scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 336
Getting the underbelly cover down isn't to bad. Putting it back on is tricky by yourself. If you have help it will not be a problem. I do not have any experience with Coraplast but I know it has been mentioned some years ago on the forum. I remember reading that some users where planning on replacing the factory belly cover with the Coraplast
__________________
Scott
'05 2500 HD
'04 PF30CK
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...04/TheRig3.jpg
scott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 07:55 AM   #5
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 10
Thank you guys... we'll keep you posted and updated with our findings of solving this soggy mess





Zeil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 01:46 PM   #6
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 10


Today's progress to fix water collected in the underbelly of our 24 ft Zinger...
First we blocked and secured the wheels up about 5" and jacked the bow of the trailer up as high as possible to provide work room.
A tarp was spread on the ground to make sliding under the trailer a little easier
Next a storage bin was placed below the area where the cut was going to be made to collect and inspect the water as well as the fiberglass insulation rubbish
Once and material was cut water ran out freely... increasing the cut allowed to pull out the soaking wet insulation in sheets.
Fortunately the localized "leak", caused by the aluminum bottom side panel to sag down and form a tiny, hardly noticeable 2 ft long crack between the first and second aluminum sheet which allowed water to penetrate and collect inside in only one section (between steel members) of the underbelly. The leak occurred immediately next to the storage door with water collecting directly below.
By cutting 3 fist size holes in the underbelly plastic we were able to gently pull out the insulation and allowed to grope around for any wetness. By inserting a towel the residue water was removed followed by using a shop vacuum in reverse, (blowing instead of sucking) the area was dried out. We'll leave the are open until tomorrow. The plan is to use Tuck-tape to seal the cuts that were made. Experts suggested that few tape type materials will adhere well to polyethylene...
Just to make sure we checked availability of "Coroplast", sheeting at Home Depot. FYI Home Depot indeed carries a selection of 3/16" 4m/m 4x8 sheets and smaller sizes in clear and white. Black or other color is a special order. Cost is $16.50 per 4x8 ft sheet. The material will do well, has a limited insulating value and will need to be intermittent supported to structural component between the steel members. It would definitely my choice of materials if I had to replace part or the entire underbelly.

Here are some photo's of today's rogress





















Zeil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 01:56 PM   #7
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 10
Sorry guys... can't seem to get the photo's taken today transferred from Shutterfly to this site
Can someone please outline the procedure... thanks in advance




Zeil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2012, 02:59 AM   #8
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location:
Posts: 16
I had a leak a couple of years ago into my underbelly. I sliced it open in an H pattern in a couple of spots between the frame members. Pulled out the soggy fiberglass, washed the underside of the floor with a bleach solution (there was some mold beginning to form). Then let it dry open to the air for a couple of weeks. Replaced the batt insulation, and then taped it back up. My local dealer was gracious enough to give me some underbelly tape to seal it up. I think it was called Flex Mend. It was probably somewhere between 4-6" wide with a peel-able backing that made it easy to get lined up. It really sticks well. I did it alone, but it would have definitely been easier with more hands.



__________________
=====================

2006 Zinger 32SB
CamperBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2012, 08:58 AM   #9
Site Team
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: WI.
Posts: 7,688
That's some wonderful tape your dealer gave you. I have some of the same stuff. It's really pliable and sticks like crazy. People rave about gorilla tape, but I think this stuff has got it beat six ways ta Sunday.



__________________
2008 Cruiser CF26RK
2013 Ford Eco-Boost
Heavy duty payload - Max tow
Lloyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2012, 09:01 AM   #10
Site Team
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: WI.
Posts: 7,688


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeil
Sorry guys... can't seem to get the photo's taken today transferred from Shutterfly to this site
Can someone please outline the procedure... thanks in advance



I use http://photobucket.com/ You have to join, then upload your photos to them, then you can bring them over to the forum and post.
__________________
2008 Cruiser CF26RK
2013 Ford Eco-Boost
Heavy duty payload - Max tow
Lloyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2012, 01:27 PM   #11
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 10
Thank you all for your input and making us feel welcome...

We were devastated when we first looked underneath the trailer and discovered the poly liner stretched with water from the leak. Fortunately a couple of gallons of water was confined to the area directly below the storage area which has the bedroom above.

At this point have no intention, unless someone on this forum convinces us otherwise, to replace the insulation. We've considered using closed cell polystyrene beads which won't absorb water but need to come up with a method of pouring the small beads, which are also used for "beanbags", into the underbelly unless we drill some holes in the floor of the storage area. Any suggestions??

Thank you for the bleach drench and "Flex Mend", tape suggestion... we'll contact the Zinger dealer in town. Another type of tape that was recommended is "Tuck Tape", used in construction which will adhere very well to poly film...

Since we're planning to travel approx. 2000 miles in the next 6 weeks we'll vent the floor using our the reverse of the shop vacuum cleaner, tape up the cuts made and re-open the belly when we return mid October... Yes... we expect frost since we will be in Alberta north of Galgary and for a couple of weeks in Smithers, BC which is at the same latitude as the south tip of Alaska

This evening we'll try to post some images...





Zeil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 10:27 AM   #12
Family Vacation Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 189
Hey I use coroplass all the time, I believe its the same stuff your talking about. I get all I want free. all the election signs around here made of that, most all are 4x8. I just got 20 sheets. I will say, it doesn't matter if they are Rep, or Dem. Sure saves me money. Only problem depends on how they are nailed up, sometime edges may be bad. I am sure this is the same stuff your talking about.

shoe2728 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 04:34 PM   #13
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 10

Yes... from your description is sounds like the same material. It, "Coroplast", is flexible, can easily be cut with a knife, handsaw, or any other cutting tool in whatever shape desired and has a small insulation factor. It is inexpensive and readily available in white and clear while colored sheets can be ordered. Home Depot, among others, stock the material in 4x8ft sheets as well as a variety of other sizes. Plastic h profile extrusions and end-caps are also available.

The sheets need to be frequently fastened using self-drilling tap-screws or wood-screws with big washers preferably with rubber washers to absorb any vibration. The material has a very poor UV rating and will become brittle and discolor rapidly if exposed to sunshine. This, however, is not a problem using it for the underbelly of a travel trailer.

In our case we will for now tape the cuts ,made in the underbelly, shut using the red construction "Tuck Tape", to be opened again for further ventilation of the affected area when we arrive this weekend at our destination.

At this point we're not planning to replace the removed insulation unless we find a way to pour polystyrene beads into the space. One other option we are considering is to insulate the basement wall and ceiling instead. It could well be a far more effective and less moisture attracting way of doing things...

Please feel free to provide your experience, ideas, concepts or suggestions





Zeil is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Crossroads RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×