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Old 04-15-2017, 06:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Buy the portable one, plug into power, add rv cable, wait 2 minutes & viola. Also when you trade rvs, follow same procedures. Our 50 amp portable is currently on it's 3rd rv.
I like to think most people are honest. I'd rather put it inside for $300 plus.
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Old 04-15-2017, 06:35 PM   #22
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Finally got into the basement today. In the picture there are two precisely cut holes for wires. On the other side of that the cable comes up through the floor. I'm going to disconnect it from the back of the panel and pull it through the wall. I got three feet of 6 gauge 50 amp cable at HD. I'm going to leave the original cable alone, wire that to the in side of the EMS and use the new cable to run back to the panel. Mount it in the basement, run the display either up into the kitchen or leave it in the basement. Then when I go to trade the 5th wheel I can just rewire the way it was.
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:43 AM   #23
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Those are quality cut holes you have in the wall. Looks like all they had was a hammer and chisel
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:03 PM   #24
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Those are quality cut holes you have in the wall. Looks like all they had was a hammer and chisel
Or they used trained rats!
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Buy the portable one, plug into power, add rv cable, wait 2 minutes & viola. Also when you trade rvs, follow same procedures. Our 50 amp portable is currently on it's 3rd rv.
No doubt the portable one is easier, and can transfer from vehicle to vehicle. However, two things to consider: More prone to theft, and each plug in, if not very tight and clean, can add resistance, thus heat, and eventual connection lost. That's what happened to mine.
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:48 PM   #26
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I'm still trying to figure out if my A/C units have built in delays. Air Excel by Colman Mach, one is 15,000 BTU, 4800 series, the other is 13.5 BTU 4700 series.

Nothing in manuas or website.
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:26 PM   #27
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Mount it in the basement, run the display either up into the kitchen or leave it in the basement. Then when I go to trade the 5th wheel I can just rewire the way it was.
My decision was to put the display inside the trailer. It displays amps and voltage on each hot leg. Inside the trailer it is ez to see if power is getting close to the limits. And if a problem occurs, you can see the error code w/o going outside. With the display in the basement, you will never see any of the real time data. The solenoid is very noisy and takes about 5 sec to engage. So, when plugging in, if you don't hear it engage, then you know there is an issue. It just seemed to me that having the display in the basement was not as useful as having it inside. Just FYI
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:12 PM   #28
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No doubt the portable one is easier, and can transfer from vehicle to vehicle. However, two things to consider: More prone to theft, and each plug in, if not very tight and clean, can add resistance, thus heat, and eventual connection lost. That's what happened to mine.
Bought the 1st one in '05 & used it til it fried in '10, it was warrantied so got #2 & have used it every day since '10, never worried about theft & prongs look good as new. I was just pointing out that if it's that much work to install then realize odds are if you use your rv regularly, you will be doing the same install again.
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:15 PM   #29
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My decision was to put the display inside the trailer. It displays amps and voltage on each hot leg. Inside the trailer it is ez to see if power is getting close to the limits. And if a problem occurs, you can see the error code w/o going outside. With the display in the basement, you will never see any of the real time data. The solenoid is very noisy and takes about 5 sec to engage. So, when plugging in, if you don't hear it engage, then you know there is an issue. It just seemed to me that having the display in the basement was not as useful as having it inside. Just FYI
I'm going to leave it in the basement right now. I'm more interested in protecting my electronic stuff than reading the display. If there is a problem, it is likely with the park power. I expect if I have issues it is going to be with brown outs when the park is full and everyone is running A/C.

It's easy enough to move into the coach if I change my mind. I attached it with heavy duty hook and loop stuff like the EZ pass uses. I could actually put it inside the cabinet under the sink pretty easily without cutting or drilling.
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