Leaking into far rear membrane? Wassup?

[lss177]

Discovered today water leaking from the far rear lower membrane on my 2018 Sunset Trail 222RB... this membrane is at the bottom lower edge of the rear wall, it is not the "cardboard-like" underbelly covering.

Water is "captured" all along this membrane across the bottom rear of the camper. I poked a hole or two in it to let it drain out.

Anyone seen this happen before? Wonder where its coming from???

[Lloyd]

Have you filled your fresh water tank recently? Some times if it's filled to fast it can flow out the breather tube. If the breather tube is inside the membrane it will flow into there.


Another thought---if the FW tank is also right there, maybe the fill hose where it's connected to the tank is not tight/sealed and it could run out there.

[mark5w]

My tanks outlet to pump snapped and had to be repaired. Got pulled over by state police who saw it leaking and thought it was my black or gray tank. Collected some of the water in my hand and "smelled" it was the fresh. He refused to smell it and then they let me go.

[Russb]

One of the low point drain valves blew apart and flooded the underneath between the membrane and floor. All of the holding tanks had to be dropped to remove and replace the wet insulation. Fortunately insurance covered the repair.

[lss177]

Figured it out... outside kitchen faucet was leaking down into the space below, sending water into back part of camper. Tightened her up, all good!

[Russb]

Originally Posted by lss177

Figured it out... outside kitchen faucet was leaking down into the space below, sending water into back part of camper. Tightened her up, all good!

I would suggest dropping some of the membrane to be sure the insulation is dry. That was the major issue when I had the leak.

[Danimal713]

Originally Posted by lss177

Discovered today water leaking from the far rear lower membrane on my 2018 Sunset Trail 222RB... this membrane is at the bottom lower edge of the rear wall, it is not the "cardboard-like" underbelly covering.

Water is "captured" all along this membrane across the bottom rear of the camper. I poked a hole or two in it to let it drain out.

Anyone seen this happen before? Wonder where its coming from???

I saw the same on our 2017 Sunset Trails 291RK. I drained it and have been keeping an eye on it and hunting. I saw a small amount again but today, got out a ladder and looked at the roof. The caulk line where roof membrane has dried and has a small gap. I also see some "patches" of repaired areas that looks like the self-leveling caulk for sealing roof penetrations but a different color which means it has been repaired previously- poorly in my opinion. Now I know what I need to do to make it sound. Dry it out and I think I already have a tube of that stuff- used it before and works great- then fix it right. I also found some water in a closet by the shower and evidence of past leak at bottom of bathroom vanity. Still looking for that one but might have fixed it by caulking the shower glass and shower wall bottom lips. I don't mind using particle board covered with a veneer that looks nice, BUT- the work to do the sealing and make sure things don't leak cannot be compromised. But in the end, I'll fix it all and get it right. I am also pulling the bottom sheet to make sure all holes in the floor for things to pass through are sealed. Then will add more insulation to the bottom vault. Crossroads/Kestone do not do themselves a favor by allowing poor quality (crappy) work. Also the local dealer that did the "repairs" bears that blame as well. Anyway nuff ranting but check your roof joints for good seals.

[grtblu]

Originally Posted by lss177

Discovered today water leaking from the far rear lower membrane on my 2018 Sunset Trail 222RB... this membrane is at the bottom lower edge of the rear wall, it is not the "cardboard-like" underbelly covering.

Water is "captured" all along this membrane across the bottom rear of the camper. I poked a hole or two in it to let it drain out.

Anyone seen this happen before? Wonder where its coming from???

You like I, purchased an execrable piece of crap otherwise known as Thor products. On mine the entire front leaked warped and needed total replacing. I aslo had water leaking in the interface on the sides where the aluminum panels along the bottom meet the upper plastic sides. The geniuses at Thor put the upper edge of the aluminum over the outside of the plastic sides thereby allowing any leakage to go right into the walls rather like putting house shingles on upside down. This seam is of course hidden under a poorly caulked side fairing strip. You probably ought to completely remove the rear wall, the water damage and wetness will promote rot and mould.

[Lloyd]

I'm not pointing a finger at anyone in particular.
These RV's need a lot of attention and maintenance to keep them water proof/tight and usable. Anybody that don't have the time and or ability to devote to it will end up with problems.
There is a lot of RV's out there, mine included that are quite old but still in good to excellent condition. After being pulled down the road bouncing, twisting and jumping around, they all will leak if routine maintenance isn't performed.


Sure, Thor has to shoulder some of the blame for shoddy workmanship and poor QC. and some dealers also. (some should never be allowed to sell RV's)


But after we take ownership most of the responsibility falls back on the us. It's doing our part in a thorough PDI before accepting the unit, then it's on us to do the routine inspections and required maintenance and repairs. That's what will keep your unit usable.

[Danimal713]

Originally Posted by Lloyd

I'm not pointing a finger at anyone in particular.
These RV's need a lot of attention and maintenance to keep them water proof/tight and usable. Anybody that don't have the time and or ability to devote to it will end up with problems.
There is a lot of RV's out there, mine included that are quite old but still in good to excellent condition. After being pulled down the road bouncing, twisting and jumping around, they all will leak if routine maintenance isn't performed.


Sure, Thor has to shoulder some of the blame for shoddy workmanship and poor QC. and some dealers also. (some should never be allowed to sell RV's)


But after we take ownership most of the responsibility falls back on the us. It's doing our part in a thorough PDI before accepting the unit, then it's on us to do the routine inspections and required maintenance and repairs. That's what will keep your unit usable.

Lloyd, I totally agree with you. We sold a 15 year old 24' hybrid camper after we found this one. It was in excellent shape due to our diligence doing just as you described. It sold for $6000 in 4 hours! I had 13 people wanting to come look at it and first family that showed up took it home (we live south of Knoxville- they near Birmingham AL). Once I fix and modify all the things that are needed this will be a decent camper. What I am seeing is shoddy workmanship. Our previous was a Trail Cruiser (RVision) and had some problems but overall was not bad. Our first one was wrecked after 7 years and we liked it so much we bought same year and model again and had another 8. We would still have it had we not found this one. COVID helped pull the price we got. The guy we bought from was 2nd owner and he used it one week to Myrtle Beach. The people that traded in to a local dealer supposedly only used it 3-4 times. It did not have much use and was evident by the condition of it. However, I had about 7 doors what the hinge screws were stripped so had to repair them right away. The slider seals ripped the flap that does the sealing off with just minimal use. I found some replacement seals that have an adhesive strip to stick to the base of the current seals. A tech I explained this too said the slider had to come out to replace the ones from factory. They use a forklift to remove slider. Uhhh well yeah but no thanks. The tech was actually pretty good. The sales lady pretty much worthless. I will need to determine the correct length for the seals and trim off the end so they do not buckle under itself going in/out like the originals. They were too long.
What found on the roof when I looked was a gap between the edge flange and the rubber roof caulk. Also around several of the skylite and rood protrusions was the original factory caulk and a different colored caulk added later in some areas around those openings. This means it probably had been leaking and a tech did some but didn't get the rear roof edge that meets the back wall. Again as you say, shoddy workmanship. I'll use some gentle heat to drive moisture out then caulk it on a nice sunny day- next week is to be very nice all week and into upper 50s.
Here is a tip to fix hinge screws that strip out. Remove doors and in holes that are stripped out, cut toothpicks to length and use a good wood glue on them and insert into holes. Several holes I needed multiple pieces. Then put the screws/doors back on. Now the screws have something solid to hold in. The fiber-board backing just won't do it. I have been playing/working with wood for over 45 years and is is a trick I learn long ago and works great.

[mark5w]

Where the roof meets the front and back wall, I use Eternabond tape to seal it. then caulk the leading edge.

[Lloyd]

Originally Posted by mark5w

Where the roof meets the front and back wall, I use Eternabond tape to seal it. then caulk the leading edge.

I did the same on the front. Back hasn't needed it.