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Old 11-23-2020, 03:15 PM   #1
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Disappointed in Crossroads

So we are supposed to have the heated under belly, but after taking my central heat out this is what it is. A single 2 inch duct that is blocked and goes nowhere. There is a 2 inch hole but the tarp like material is not cut so the duct can not reach the underbelly. So that means there is NO warm air going to the underbelly at all! Even if the duct did reach the underbelly how much good would it do being no where near any water lines or tanks? The other 3 ducts go to the 3 vents in the Rv. I have also dropped my underbelly cover and seen that there are no "Y's" anywhere to heat the underbelly from the 3 main ducts. I feel scammed.
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Old 11-23-2020, 03:59 PM   #2
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Does the duct work run under the floor from one register to another or are your heat registers in the walls not the floor?
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Old 11-23-2020, 04:29 PM   #3
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We full time in our 13 Rushmore. Our black tank valve froze up one winter. After that I ducted myself, off the furnace to get heat to the belly section. I cut the blank plug in half. So I wouldn't lose to much heat from the floor vents. If you want it done right. You have to do it yourself. With Crossroads product.0509171140.jpg0509171127.jpg
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Old 11-23-2020, 04:33 PM   #4
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Scammed? Not really. Disappointed, yes. You see, besides it not being connected, it is par for the course in most brands of campers. This is normal heated underbelly construction. Heated underbelly should be referred to as a warmed underbelly. Never enough heat going there to prevent freezing. Heaters panels for the tanks is a better solution.
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Old 11-23-2020, 04:50 PM   #5
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That was the reason for my question if the camper has floor registers or if the duct work runs inside the cabinets. If indeed it has floor registers then the radiant heat is what the industry refers to as a heated underbelly. Not designed for 4 season camping.
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Old 11-28-2020, 12:35 PM   #6
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Got to agree with Mark5W & dagst1...The floor vents that heat your camper main cabin is what they refer to as heated underbelly...Heat mats would be the best thing you could do for the tanks...
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Old 11-29-2020, 05:27 PM   #7
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Can you tell us what year make & model your rig is? Didnít see it in your profile.
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Old 11-29-2020, 07:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonyg2724 View Post
Can you tell us what year make & model your rig is? Didnít see it in your profile.

He's got it in his signature.


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Old 11-30-2020, 12:57 PM   #9
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Scammed indeed!

Scammed indeed! I found a 2" duct that at least put some warm air into the underbelly but came out BEHIND the rear gray water tank so not going forward very far. I ended up pulling the underbelly plastic off by 6 sections (about 30' of it) and adding insulation I had left over from shop insulation add. Added panels to inside of frame rail and a sheet of it across under the plastic I put back up. Then ducted the 2" into a PVC pipe that shoots it forward. I did not add heated pads to the tanks but could later. Dey ain't cheap and I don't think we will be out in that extreme temps, but one never knows. I still need to seal the seams and perimeter with EternaBond tape that came last Friday. It is upper 30s and rain turning to snow later so NOT going out there today. But I did finish winterizing today before the 20s hit tonight. It took 3 gallons to see pink at all faucets and then added some more to the drains.
Oh and I also used window/door foam in a can to fill the holes in the floor where the pipes and electric come through. And used pipe insulation on all the pipes and tie wraps to hold in place.
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