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Old 05-24-2009, 06:37 AM   #1
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New 29RK pulling with 2WD Dodge 2500. In past I've always leveled my travel trailers measuring from the bottom of frame to ground. I'm guessing the same on 5th wheels.

Trailer now setting high in front about 4". Would starting by raising the pinbox on the trailer be logical? Then if trailer not low enough lower the hitch?

I'd like to keep the hitch as high as possible so I can see it during hookup.

How heavy is pinbox and anyone known torque ratings on the bolts???


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Old 05-24-2009, 07:17 AM   #2
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The original pin box, (if it's a Lippert like mine) is not very heavy. I just dropped mine out and changed it over to a MorRyde. Now that one is a different story. But I think the original is about 50#. Just awkward to deal with.
If my memory serves me right, they recommended 300# torque on the MorRyde. I have raised and lowered the old one, but don't have a torque wrench that goes that high so I used loc-tite and sapped them up with my air wrench.


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Old 05-24-2009, 07:50 AM   #3
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The front of the trailer being 4" high pulling with a 2wd seems like a lot. I pulled our 29RK with my 4X4 and was pretty much level with the pin set at the factory settings and my hitch one hole up from the bottom. I just don't know if you are going to get 4" by just adjusting the pin but you might.
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:32 PM   #4
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Your sequence of adjustments is fine. Just make sure you have at least 6 inches of clearance between the overhang and the tailgate end of the truck. More is better. You will need that clearance when going over uneven surfaces such as driveway entrances and exits and camp sites.



My trailer rides about 3 inches high in the front, measured from the frame and it pulls like a dream. No problem with tire wear either.
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter11
The front of the trailer being 4" high pulling with a 2wd seems like a lot. I pulled our 29RK with my 4X4 and was pretty much level with the pin set at the factory settings and my hitch one hole up from the bottom. I just don't know if you are going to get 4" by just adjusting the pin but you might.
Well, it surprised me too, but I just assumed with a 2WD I would be closer to level. My hitch will lower a couple of holes which is probably 2", and I bet I could get 2" out of the pinbox

Even at 4" high measured at the frame, it doesn't look that bad and pulls fine. I drove it 1000mi from Ohio back to Texas last week and it pulled great. I just know they are supposed to be really close to level.

I'm tempted to try it at 2" high and see what happens. don't know if it would affect the ride or the tire wear?

Crossroads now uses a shackle mount on the springs that allows raising the springs up about 2". Possibly could do this to gain some trailer rear height.
Edited by: pulpwood007
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Old 05-25-2009, 05:04 AM   #6
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I pull with a 2500 Dode I am level with my unit. the major clearance on a fifth wheel is the distance between the the bed of the truck and the trailer. most people like 6" I am running 51/2 inches

Edited by: fhenn
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:09 AM   #7
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I don't think you would have any problems with 2 inches. As I stated in my prior post I am having no problems with tire wear and mine is 3 inches high in the front. I hava a little over 8,000 miles on my trailer tires now and there is no measurable difference in tread depth. I have not rotated the tires yet. I am runnig right at 11,000 lbs loaded out.



That is with the dreaded chinese Mission tires, which so far have been fine.
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:53 PM   #8
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The more I think about adjusting my trailer I'm thinking about starting with lowering the ends of the springs to the bottom holes of the shackle supports. This would help maintain the most height possible between the bed rails and trailer.

Has anyone done this? Would jacking the trailer up by the frame until the tire is off the ground, then putting a small jack under the spring, removing the bolt, drop the spring down to the bottom hole be the correct procedure? I'm assuming there is not going to be a bunch of tension in the spring if done this way.


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Old 05-26-2009, 01:15 PM   #9
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My pin box is as high as will go and my hitch is as low as it will go and I'm still a little high in the front with a Chevy at stock highth. I think the Dodges and Fords sit higher than mine.

If you drive the camper up on some boards it will lift the back axles off the ground, You could than adj yours springs ( I have done this in a parking lot far far away from home ). I would jack on the frame as little as possible. It would not scare me to do the front axle this way though.

It would be faster , easier to do the hitch or pin box.



Oh by the way my Pin box bolts were not all that tight. Actualy a littel loose for my taste.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pulpwood007
New 29RK pulling with 2WD Dodge 2500. In past I've always leveled my travel trailers measuring from the bottom of frame to ground. I'm guessing the same on 5th wheels.

Trailer now setting high in front about 4". Would starting by raising the pinbox on the trailer be logical? Then if trailer not low enough lower the hitch?

I'd like to keep the hitch as high as possible so I can see it during hookup.

How heavy is pinbox and anyone known torque ratings on the bolts???

Pulpwood.
I have an 03 chev 2500HD. My 5er measures 1 in. high in front, and I have between 6 & 7 in. clearance over the rails. I think there are several reasons that a lot of people are having problems with the front of their cruiser being high.
1st
Most have newer trucks then mine and the new trucks set higher, not only in the bed but the side rails also.
2nd
I see there are a lot of guys towing with 3500s. Just about all of the cruisers are light enough that you don't need that big a TV.
3rd
I think CR has the floor under the bed set low. (this in turn also lowers your pin box) Probably to keep the overall height down, maybe the cost to. They do give ample head room in the bedroom as far as I'm concerned. For an entry level trailer I think they have done a pretty good job. I myself would hate to see them get the 5er any higher then it already is. BUT-----I think the newer higher trucks have caused a situation for cruiser, and us.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
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Old 06-21-2009, 01:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Farmer

Quote:
Originally Posted by pulpwood007
New 29RK pulling with 2WD Dodge 2500. In past I've always leveled my travel trailers measuring from the bottom of frame to ground. I'm guessing the same on 5th wheels.

Trailer now setting high in front about 4". Would starting by raising the pinbox on the trailer be logical? Then if trailer not low enough lower the hitch?

I'd like to keep the hitch as high as possible so I can see it during hookup.

How heavy is pinbox and anyone known torque ratings on the bolts???

Pulpwood.
I have an 03 chev 2500HD. My 5er measures 1 in. high in front, and I have between 6 & 7 in. clearance over the rails. I think there are several reasons that a lot of people are having problems with the front of their cruiser being high.
1st
Most have newer trucks then mine and the new trucks set higher, not only in the bed but the side rails also.
2nd
I see there are a lot of guys towing with 3500s. Just about all of the cruisers are light enough that you don't need that big a TV.
3rd
I think CR has the floor under the bed set low. (this in turn also lowers your pin box) Probably to keep the overall height down, maybe the cost to. They do give ample head room in the bedroom as far as I'm concerned. For an entry level trailer I think they have done a pretty good job. I myself would hate to see them get the 5er any higher then it already is. BUT-----I think the newer higher trucks have caused a situation for cruiser, and us.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Farmer,

You are exactly right. One of the reasons I bought the Cruiser (after looking at them for 2 years) was because I wanted a 30' trailer that did not have a high profile. Cruisers fit the bill.

I had no idea never owning a 5th wheel I would encounter this problem. I will get it solved, I just don"t know the solution at the moment. I've got some ideas but I'll save them for another thread.

I think I could live with 1" high but would like 7 - 8" over the bed rails. Sure wish I could get some ideas from Crossroads and Lippert.
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:08 PM   #12
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The bolts on our pin box are grade 5, 5/8 bolts.The 3 lines on the bolt head signify grade 5.standard torque in ft.lbs. on a grade 5 ,5/8 uss bolt is 154 ft lbs.even a 3/4 in bolt list at 257 ft.lbs max torque.Check your bolts and then check a torque value chart they all pretty much agree with each other.Most Chilton books have a chart. I just googled the chart and checked a few at random and the numbers were the same.Most instructions round down to the nearest,i.e.my hitch has 1/2 bolts and the instructions say to torque to 75 ft lbs,the chart says 78.I dont think I would torque the pin box past 150 as you can weaken the bolt unless you increase its strength.However when you go up in strength i believe the bolt becomes more brittle.

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Old 06-21-2009, 10:33 PM   #13
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Pulpwood if your axles are in the upper holes and you have the 2 hole setup just raise your camper up and take the weight off the axles. Changing bolt holes is your best solution and why the lower holes are there. Hook your truck to 5er to keep it still and jack on frame, yes you can do this just make sure jack is in center of web on frame., take enough weight off spring to get bolt out raise camper enough to replace bolt in lower hole. Do 1 shackel at a time. If you have 2 jacks raise camper tire 2" off ground and use second jack to lower axle. I just changed all bushings and pins on my camper easy job.
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Pulpwood if your axles are in the upper holes and you have the 2 hole setup just raise your camper up and take the weight off the axles. Changing bolt holes is your best solution and why the lower holes are there. Hook your truck to 5er to keep it still and jack on frame, yes you can do this just make sure jack is in center of web on frame., take enough weight off spring to get bolt out raise camper enough to replace bolt in lower hole. Do 1 shackel at a time. If you have 2 jacks raise camper tire 2" off ground and use second jack to lower axle. I just changed all bushings and pins on my camper easy job.
Problem there is using lower holes in the spring hangers will not get you a 2" lift without doing the center support as well.

The folks at Trailair (Equa-flex) said at best probably about 1" lift. Also, just dropping to bottom hole will twist the axle changing the toe in alignment necessitating a new alignment ($150).

If I'm going to that much trouble and expense I am going to have a local welding shop build a new hanger for the center support so that the whole suspension assembly will lower, raising the trailer 2".

That will then enable me to go to 16" wheels/tires and get at least another 1". This will solve ALL my problems.

I just can't get Lippert to consult with me on the project!!!!!
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwit
Hook your truck to 5er to keep it still and jack on frame, yes you can do this just make sure jack is in center of web on frame.,
By the way, what is the "web" of the frame. My frame is 8" I beam'
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:04 AM   #16
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the web is the center of the i beam.



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Old 06-22-2009, 09:27 AM   #17
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If you are going to change the center shackle contact Lippert and get the new improved shackels, they have a v block welded inside shackle for added support. My dealer just put 6 new ones on my camper under warrenty, my tires were hitting bottom of camper. Shackles are not expensive.
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwit
If you are going to change the center shackle contact Lippert and get the new improved shackles, they have a v block welded inside shackle for added support. My dealer just put 6 new ones on my camper under warranty, my tires were hitting bottom of camper. Shackles are not expensive.
I can't see how changing the shackles would gain hight. Are your referring to the hangers? Correct me if I'm missing something here as my knowledge of suspensions components is lacking!

I've talked with the folks at Equa-flex and they said nothing about changing shackles.





I'm having a tough time getting Lippert to work with me but if you

could give me some specifics I might could get some results through

Crossroads.
Edited by: pulpwood007
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:44 AM   #19
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Yes the hanger or the part that welds to frame that the spring bolts to. They make this in different heights. Frame to hole for spring. THe new one's have to be 10 times stronger than the old ones, so ask for the one's with the welded v block welded in the frame hanger. If you call crossroads ask for Randy Mishler he is the one who helped me great person to deal with.
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:48 AM   #20
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OH the eltra streinght comes from the v welded in the hanger as well it is welded to frame so you not only have the sides welded to frame but the v also.
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