After doing more reading and researching, I thought that I HAD to have
the front lower coupled than when it was coupled. I now know that it is
ok to have it the same or even (ever so) slightly higher. I had taken
multiple measurements and with the L bracket in the 6th hole from the
top (one down from its' current position),the front stays the same and
the rear is about 1 3/4 inches down. I will change it and then see how
it handles. If I recall correctly, that provided a little less flex in
the bars. I will have to get out there this week and change/check it to
The L brackets are 32" on center from back of center of coupler. Their are 8 washers on there, which is the max as per documentation from the vendor. I emailed Progress Mfg Inc. this weekend and Daniel (whom I have read many great things about) replied. He also called me to verify I received the email and if I had any more questions.
Here is his response:
I'll be calling you back about this, too, but I thought I would e-mail
so you have it in writing. It is not unusual to have the spring arms
angle up toward the trailer. When you're hitched properly, your spring
arms should either ride parallel with the trailer's tongue, or have a
slight rise as you move back, toward the trailer. If your spring arms
aren't at LEAST level with the tongue, you'll need to transfer more
From the sound of it, though, you've probably got things adjusted
properly. If the truck and trailer drive well, I think you're in a good
position at this point.
If the upper angle bothers you at all, you can take other measures to
get the weight transfer as you'd like it.
Our hitch is designed with two places to adjust the weight distribution.
The brackets on the trailer tongue are the fastest while you're out on
the road, or if you need a quick adjustment. If you wanted to make a
more "permanent" adjustment, you'd use the spacer-rivet and washers in
between the hitch head and the shank that it's bolted to. It's the
piece that gives the hitch-head its tilt. I've attached a picture to
show you what I'm talking about.
The spacer washers give the same amount of tension as raising the
L-brackets on hole higher. If you removed a washer, it'd be like
lowering the L-brackets. If you added one, it would be like raising the
It's often easiest to do the washers at home, when you have time to take
it all apart and put it back together.
If you don't like the angle of the spring arms and want them more
parallel, you can change that by moving a "tension setting" from the
L-brackets to the spacer rivet and its washers.
You can disassemble the hitch head and add a spacer (part 22) onto the
spacer rivet (part 21), then lower the L-brackets one hole on each side,
and that would change where the pressure is made. It would give the
same pressure, just different location and the bars would ride a bit
more parallel with the frame.
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Let me know if you have questions.
For lubricating the Equal-i-zer hitch we recommend our high performance
lubricant. It's less smelly and easier to clean up than other options.
If you'd prefer to use grease that you have already, the only
stipulation we have is that the grease be rated for use with axles or
bearings. Anything lighter (WD-40, graphite, spray-on lubricants) just
won't hold up against the intense weights and pressures that are
experienced in the hitch head.
The only place that we recommend lubricating the Equal-i-zer hitch head
the area where the sockets move back and forth, on the top side of the
sockets, and the underside of the hitch-head. I recommend that you put
the spring arm all the way in the socket, swing the socket out so that
the biggest segment of the top surface is exposed. Do the same on the
other side of the hitch. After cleaning off the tops of the sockets,
you'll also want to clean the underside of the hitch head, where the
sockets should have begun wearing silver "half-moons". Once you've
cleaned the head, lubricate the top surface of the sockets and the
underside of the hitch head.
We recommend that you periodically check this area throughout a towing
season. We recommend especially that you clean the head up after being
in sandy or dusty areas, as the sand and dust tends to stick to any
lubrication. We also recommend that you start out the year by cleaning
the hitch head, removing any rust, painting any exposed steel with
something similar to Rustoleum (but not painting the silver half-moons
under the hitch head) and then lubricating as I've mentioned above.</pre>I will drop the bracket one hole and re-measure and test drive it this weekend and report my findings.