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Old 07-12-2019, 08:17 AM   #1
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Black Tank Valve Stuck

I have a 2012 Crossroads Cruiser Patriot edition fifth wheel. The black water tank valve is stuck in the open position. Can anyone please tell me how to access the valves to repair/replace them. The cable seems to be froze solid and won’t move in or out. They are enclosed somewhere under the bottom. Not sure if I can access from the storage compartment or if I have to go in from underneath.

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:54 AM   #2
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You will have to access the valves from the bottom.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:30 AM   #3
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Simply unscrew a few screws along the frame that hold the coroplast on and pull down a bit. Use flashlight to see where the valve is then just cut the liner with a short blade, careful you dont cut wires laying on it. Find problem then gorilla tape it back .
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:38 AM   #4
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https://www.rvupgradestore.com/3-WAS...7ADBD643EE5680

If your in a bind this would work
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:18 PM   #5
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Same thing happened to my 2013 Rushmore. I dropped the belly pan. Replaced with a solid steel cable. Adjusted the cable too close correctly. Reinstalled belly. Yes it was a all day job. But it now works so smooth.IMG_20160624_072720_128.jpg
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfish View Post
I have a 2012 Crossroads Cruiser Patriot edition fifth wheel. The black water tank valve is stuck in the open position. Can anyone please tell me how to access the valves to repair/replace them. The cable seems to be froze solid and won’t move in or out. They are enclosed somewhere under the bottom. Not sure if I can access from the storage compartment or if I have to go in from underneath.

Thanks,

Bill
I have the same problem and tomorrow I will be dropping the belly liner to see what parts I need.
I suspect it will be the entire actuator; handle/cable and gate. (Valterra Black 3" Valve TC372 Flexible Cable Kit-72" with 3" Valve)
Good Luck to You!!
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:21 PM   #7
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[QUOTE=Kamper Dave;138639]I have the same problem and tomorrow I will be dropping the belly liner to see what parts I need.
I suspect it will be the entire actuator; handle/cable and gate.

IT IS A BRISTOL 3" NOT a Valterra.

It was a struggle buts it's out and a new Bristol is on the way. I sure hope it comes with new seals.
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:47 PM   #8
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According to Etrailer, both brands are interchangeable.
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:25 PM   #9
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Spreader needed

IT IS A BRISTOL 3" NOT a Valterra.
It was a struggle buts it's out and a new Bristol is on the way. I sure hope it comes with new seals.[/QUOTE]

The LaSalle Bristol is on order BUT I am not sure that I can spread the fittings far enough apart to receive the new gate.
I am now thinking of cutting the 3" pipe and installing a repair coupling or a rubber boot with hose clamps( Fernco 1056-33 ).
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:37 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Kamper Dave View Post
IT IS A BRISTOL 3" NOT a Valterra.
It was a struggle buts it's out and a new Bristol is on the way. I sure hope it comes with new seals.
The LaSalle Bristol is on order BUT I am not sure that I can spread the fittings far enough apart to receive the new gate.
I am now thinking of cutting the 3" pipe and installing a repair coupling or a rubber boot with hose clamps.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.[/QUOTE]


If it's that close and tight, that rubber boot used as a coupler might be your only option.
Nothing will move or spread enough to give you a little slack huh?
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:08 PM   #11
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If it's that close and tight, that rubber boot used as a coupler might be your only option.
Nothing will move or spread enough to give you a little slack huh?[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the reply.
Nope. The tank is tight up against the framework and the pipe will not give because it is connected to the grey tanks.
Those Fernco Couplings are in stock at the big box stores. Once done I will spray the piping with black Rustoleum undercoating and those clamps will blend right in.
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:19 PM   #12
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This must be a common problem. Mine is hard to open and close too. I've pulled my panel out of the frame by yankin on that black valve handle...
thanks for the pics Kamper Dave. It looks like I'd better buy the valve.
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Old 07-17-2019, 05:47 PM   #13
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Lloyd That was the weakness on my unit. I converted to a electronic gate best thing I did. Now empty the tank quick. and takes no time to speak off when I flush the tank
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:49 AM   #14
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Lloyd;

1, Maybe I should also install a 3" inline manual gate where the pipe is exposed. (Valterra 7301 ABS Gate Valve, Black, 3" Slip) Then I would be ready for the next failure.

2, Do you recall Mr. Day stating that his gate valve was hard to operate due to the fact that solids pack the housing where the blade resides?
Well, I have to agree. After I hosed the gate clean, it operated very easily. I am tempted to pack that area with silicon paste.
I am fairly certain that the actuator cable can't take the strain and it kinks; because now with the gate disconnected it is locked up tight.

3, With the belly liner down I bundled the wiring and used a vacuum cleaner hose as a protective wire loom. The wiring loom is now attached overhead. No more bouncing on the belly liner or the plumbing.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:26 AM   #15
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I have one of these installed on the end of the line.
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-...Z5C60P2T7TFMCT


Yes, I remember Larry posting that about the blade cavity being packed full.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:38 AM   #16
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Gate

[QUOTE=Lloyd;138733]Dave
I have one of these installed on the end of the line.
Valterra-T58-Twist-On-Waste-Valve.

I always carry one just in case and it sure came in handy when the black gate failed open while up in Yellowstone. It saved us a 4-5 hour trip to Bozeman Montana and/or many trips to the bath-house. I don't favor those nighttime walks through bear country.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:41 AM   #17
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Just tie a little bell on your shoe laces Dave.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:45 AM   #18
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Just remember you don't have to out run the bear just whoever you are with!
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:00 AM   #19
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K, Dave...There are two basic rubber boots/fittings that are norm ally used for this purpose. A Fernco as you described is a fitting with two hose clamps and is for use underground where the dirt keeps the rubber from swelling after years of use. A mission clamp is basically the same thing (although a bit shorter in length) but is designed for above ground use and has a metal shield that wraps around the rubber to keep it from expanding. Both are available at Home depot or Lowes up to 3" in diameter.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:33 AM   #20
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K, Dave...There are two basic rubber boots/fittings that are norm ally used for this purpose. A Fernco as you described is a fitting with two hose clamps and is for use underground where the dirt keeps the rubber from swelling after years of use. A mission clamp is basically the same thing (although a bit shorter in length) but is designed for above ground use and has a metal shield that wraps around the rubber to keep it from expanding. Both are available at Home depot or Lowes up to 3" in diameter.
Sound Advice! Thanks
Will will head to Menards and check it out. It looks as though the Fernco Proflex Coupling is what you mentioned and they are in stock. Just as long as there is no center stop so we can slide the coupling over the 3/4" gap.
We have a plan! As soon as it quits pour down rain and before it reaches 97º I'll be back at it.
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