2015 Sunset Trail 290QB not cooling well

[007matman]

one note..

If you're ok utilizing the ceiling controls on the AC unit, you could get by without the fancy controller. They do make units (it's just the interior kit) with manual controls. It wouldn't be controlled by the main thermostat but it would still work.

The nice thing about having them both controlled by the same thermostat is that it won't allow both units to cycle at the same time, reducing the likelihood of popping a breaker. It's also more convienient and slightly more professional.

[007matman]

@Bs106 what did you find out??

[Bs106]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Sorry I didn't see your reply until now.

My camper had the second breaker installed already, there was a second temperature sensor on the wall in the bunk room (that looked like a useless do-dad but had wiring coming off the back) and next to the ceiling vent there was what looked like an electrical outlet box with just a plain white cover over it. There was a sticker over that indicating that the camper was pre-wired for a second AC unit.

Install was straightforward. I removed the pop-up ceiliing vent and inside shroud. Inside that I ran the wiring from the electrical box through some pre-made holes for the wire to run. Then cleaned up the roof where the vent was at and then placing the new ACunit (a 13.5K mach 3) over the hole. From inside, you use an interior kit (purchased seperately) to clamp the AC unit to the ceiling and secure it in place.

Wiring up the controller was where I ran into issues. The place I purchased the AC unit from sold me the wrong controller. and wouldn't accept a return. I'm assuming that since we have a similar camper, you probably need a 8ooo series controller which is now discontinued. The newer controller is the 9000, but in talking to AirXCel I found out that the 9000 series controller is not compatible with the 8000 series controller that you likely alreay have in the main unit I also wanted to install a heat strip to help a bit in the winter months. My options were to find an older 8000 series unit or upgrade the whole system to a 9000 kit. Doing so would have required new controller in the ceiling for the original AC unit, a new thermostat, and the running of an additional wire. I opted to find one of the 8000 series controllers.

Once I had the correct controller, connections were easy. You have your 120v wiring which is just like residential wiring (Hot, Neutral, Ground), there is a freeze sensor that is pluggged in and the temp sensor connection. If your camper is like mine, it'll look like larger guage 12v wiring. That is from your temp sensor on the wall (you might want to use a meter to validate that it's the same wire). In my camper, the wiring that came off the back of the sensor was tiny. However, somewhere in the wall it transitioned to the larger 12v wire.. I was scratching my head with where that wire was until I checked continuity and realized it was the same wire. Lastly, there were a couple of wires that needed to be connected for the communication to the thermostat.. they look like typical thermostat wiring. However, I think I only used a couple of the wires in there.

There is also a jumper on the controller that you need to change so the system knows that it is the 2nd unit.

The difference this made was huge. My camper cools off in a matter of minutes now even when it's warm out. We live in Georgia, so I think I have a pretty good idea what issues you may face in Florida.

If you have more questions, let me know. This is all recent for me so I may be able to locate part numbers for what I did if you need them.

When you say controller are you referring to the thermostat? What's the difference? I have one thermostat which is the RvComfort.ZC and its got a button for 'zones' so presumably can control a potential 2nd AC? That being said, there's no other temperature sensor on any walls that I can see. And I've got a breaker on the breaker panel labeled for a 2nd AC as well. All that said, I got so many different answers from - it's the AC going bad, it's the ducts and leaks into the roof that you need to fix, its normal to not get under 80 with a 33ft unit you need to definitely add a 2nd AC for those summertime 90 degree heat(despite it cooling great last summer which doesn't make sense to me), etc. I tried researching but alot of videos are so basic that they don't really help with my specific issue. So I'm not sure exactly what to do. Any helpful links or vids would be helpful. I do know I'm sort of crunched on time in that I'm booked with rentals nonstop through mid September and I need to act fast and try to be the most cost effective with it. Nonetheless your write up was super helpful as were alot of these responses and i really appreciate it. Do you think a portable unit would be a temp fix? Thanks in advance!

[Bs106]

Originally Posted by 007matman

one note..

If you're ok utilizing the ceiling controls on the AC unit, you could get by without the fancy controller. They do make units (it's just the interior kit) with manual controls. It wouldn't be controlled by the main thermostat but it would still work.

The nice thing about having them both controlled by the same thermostat is that it won't allow both units to cycle at the same time, reducing the likelihood of popping a breaker. It's also more convienient and slightly more professional.

Oh that's good to know in case I'm not pre-wired to the same thermostat and don't feel like dealing with the issues you had. And that is nice, thanks for that info!

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Bs106

When you say controller are you referring to the thermostat? What's the difference? I have one thermostat which is the RvComfort.ZC and its got a button for 'zones' so presumably can control a potential 2nd AC? That being said, there's no other temperature sensor on any walls that I can see. And I've got a breaker on the breaker panel labeled for a 2nd AC as well. All that said, I got so many different answers from - it's the AC going bad, it's the ducts and leaks into the roof that you need to fix, its normal to not get under 80 with a 33ft unit you need to definitely add a 2nd AC for those summertime 90 degree heat(despite it cooling great last summer which doesn't make sense to me), etc. I tried researching but alot of videos are so basic that they don't really help with my specific issue. So I'm not sure exactly what to do. Any helpful links or vids would be helpful. I do know I'm sort of crunched on time in that I'm booked with rentals nonstop through mid September and I need to act fast and try to be the most cost effective with it. Nonetheless your write up was super helpful as were alot of these responses and i really appreciate it. Do you think a portable unit would be a temp fix? Thanks in advance!

A good way to tell if the AC unit is working properly is to check (measure) for the temp drop between the cold air intake and the vent (exhaust) temp. Typical drop is 14-20 degrees. If you're in that range, the AC unit is working properly.

A portable unit would definitely help. The only issue you might encounter is power. An extra extension cord from the pedistal should help with that (if required). Those units can be bulky and noisy so it would definitely be a temp fix.

So, your system has three main components. The thermostat (we have the same model), the AC unit itself on the roof, and a controller or brain that runs it all that is installed inside the plenum (air handler) inside the camper (it basically sits under the main grille. Between all that is the wiring that connects it. The thermostat talks to the controllers which in turn control the unit on the roof.

With all that out of the way, what we really need to know is if the camper is truly fully wired for a second unit. In looking at the pop-up air vents, do you have one (it would typically be in the bunkhouse or in the main bedroom) that has what looks to be a pain wall reciptocal? It'll have a blank cover. In that same room, you'll likely have a temp sensor that looks something like this.. ( at the bottom) I didn't know what it was until I looked it up either.

If you do, and there is a breaker installed in that 2nd AC slot, you're golden. Let me know.

Also, it would be helpful to know what the Part number is on that controller. You'll need to pull the air grates off the AC unit from the inside and look for a white label that contains a part number.

Here is that temp sensor:
https://www.dyersonline.com/coleman-...waAuPtEALw_wcB

[007matman]

This is what the controller will look like: https://www.dyersonline.com/coleman-...ditioners.html

[Bs106]

Originally Posted by 007matman

A good way to tell if the AC unit is working properly is to check (measure) for the temp drop between the cold air intake and the vent (exhaust) temp. Typical drop is 14-20 degrees. If you're in that range, the AC unit is working properly.

A portable unit would definitely help. The only issue you might encounter is power. An extra extension cord from the pedistal should help with that (if required). Those units can be bulky and noisy so it would definitely be a temp fix.

So, your system has three main components. The thermostat (we have the same model), the AC unit itself on the roof, and a controller or brain that runs it all that is installed inside the plenum (air handler) inside the camper (it basically sits under the main grille. Between all that is the wiring that connects it. The thermostat talks to the controllers which in turn control the unit on the roof.

With all that out of the way, what we really need to know is if the camper is truly fully wired for a second unit. In looking at the pop-up air vents, do you have one (it would typically be in the bunkhouse or in the main bedroom) that has what looks to be a pain wall reciptocal? It'll have a blank cover. In that same room, you'll likely have a temp sensor that looks something like this.. ( at the bottom) I didn't know what it was until I looked it up either.

If you do, and there is a breaker installed in that 2nd AC slot, you're golden. Let me know.

Also, it would be helpful to know what the Part number is on that controller. You'll need to pull the air grates off the AC unit from the inside and look for a white label that contains a part number.

Here is that temp sensor:
https://www.dyersonline.com/coleman-...waAuPtEALw_wcB

Thanks easy to understand. Where exactly would I measure for the cold air intake temp? And what would I need to measure? I will check first thing in the morning and get back to you on that and the control box model details! I'm almost positive I don't have that temp sensor in the room though. But I definitely have a 2nd ac breaker. The ac model is air excell 48254C969.

[007matman]

Really, just any thermometer would probably work.

However, something like this would be perfect

I've shared a link to the following product detail page of Advance Auto Parts that I think would interest you! https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/product/9015027

[007matman]

I would think that just about any auto parts store would have this too.

[007matman]

While I have it handy..

This is the AC unit you would have had installed from the factory in that second opening.

https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...-500-btu-black

You will need this and a Ceiling Assembly/control panel kit as well. There are a number of them below in that listing.

Ducted models will allow you to tie into the existing ductwork. The non-ducted assembly will just blow out of the vents in the assembly.

What I did was purchase a ducted model and then sourced my controller (the one previously sent as an example of what it looks like) from another seller. I also bought the heat strip. Based on your description of the thermostat, I'm guessing that you have an 8000 series system.

If you want to have the system set up so it ties into the vents, you'll need to find the same model controller you have in the first unit (if you don't need the heat strip). If you do, you'd use the one I sent earlier.

If you don't care and just want additional cool in that one space, then you could choose a non-ducted kit. There are a number of kits that will work with your unit. Some like this would work well.
https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...ir-conditioner

You don't need to purchase from United.. I'm just providing these links to make it easy. The same parts are available anywhere. I'm not endorsing them.

[007matman]

Sorry.. I typed all that earlier before work and might have missed some detail.

I'm assuming this is the thermostat you have.. it's an 8000 series. They are not compatible with the ducted ceiling assemblies listed along with the AC unit I linked earlier from United RV. (Note: they say they're for the 9000 series).

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Digit...-p/50-0206.htm

[Bs106]

Originally Posted by 007matman

While I have it handy..

This is the AC unit you would have had installed from the factory in that second opening.

https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...-500-btu-black

You will need this and a Ceiling Assembly/control panel kit as well. There are a number of them below in that listing.

Ducted models will allow you to tie into the existing ductwork. The non-ducted assembly will just blow out of the vents in the assembly.

What I did was purchase a ducted model and then sourced my controller (the one previously sent as an example of what it looks like) from another seller. I also bought the heat strip. Based on your description of the thermostat, I'm guessing that you have an 8000 series system.

If you want to have the system set up so it ties into the vents, you'll need to find the same model controller you have in the first unit (if you don't need the heat strip). If you do, you'd use the one I sent earlier.

If you don't care and just want additional cool in that one space, then you could choose a non-ducted kit. There are a number of kits that will work with your unit. Some like this would work well.
https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...ir-conditioner

You don't need to purchase from United.. I'm just providing these links to make it easy. The same parts are available anywhere. I'm not endorsing them.

9430A751 is the controller in the unit. And i have a white blank receptable right next to the forward 14x14 ceiling vent that says its for an air conditioning circuit. Also the back of my RvComfort.zc thermostat says its part No.AY7802. Knowing all this what are the next steps? Thanks so much for being so helpful.

[007matman]

You have this thermostat?

https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...4aAn56EALw_wcB

If so, that's great! That means you have a 9000 series system. The ducted install kits would work (as long as you have that temp sensor I mentioned earlier).

It's interesting that you have a 9000 series system. They must've changed mid model year. I have an 8000 and it is also a 2015 camper.

[Bs106]

Yes I have that exact one except the part number on mine doesn't have a 1 at the end. It's just 9330A334. Don't know if that makes a difference or not. I don't have that temp sensor in the room anywhere however. Are there any install vids you know of that I can follow to do a diy install? I think I might do the install myself. Think i should put a 15,000 btu in there?

[007matman]

From what I understand, the 2nd AC is wired for a 15A breaker (at least it was in my rig). The 15k would require a larger breaker... I think it's a 20a but you can validate that in the fuse panel.

I seriously doubt that you could get a15k unit to operate properly on a 15A circuit. I do know that the 13.5k does seem to have sufficient output to cool my 38' camper (when combined with the 15k unit that's in there). In 90 and above temps.

On the ceiling vent that has the wiring installed, pull off the shroud (there should be 4 square bit screws holding it on there).

You're going to be looking for two sets of wires in there.

- A 2 conductor wire that could be a fairly thin guage. It may be clipped/stapled/ or tucked in a hole. That likely is for the temp sensor.

-thermostat wire (likely with 5 or 6 leads)

On the reciptical, carefully pry the cover off and let me know what wiring is in there.my guess is that you have yellow Romex only in there.

As far as videos are concerned, there are a few but honestly, I looked at a number of them and none was clear.. I had to figure it out myself.

[007matman]

Here is a link to the operators manual for the install of the controller. You can see in there the proper wiring for zone 2

RVP (Airxcel) - Thermostat Model Multi Zone For 9330-33 Operation Guide https://forestriverinc.com/files/Com...on%20Guide.pdf