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Old 07-22-2022, 10:10 PM   #1
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Second Air Conditioner for ST33FR

My ST33FR came wired for a second AC unit. I think that the factory option was for a 13.5. Can anyone confirm?

Anyone know if I'll also need a control board? Anything else I'll need?

https://www.trekwood.com/products/66...lack-48253C969

The 15k unit that I have just isn't cutting it in 105 degree heat.
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Old 07-27-2022, 08:49 AM   #2
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So.. I guess nobody has a second AC unit in a similar setup?
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Old 07-27-2022, 09:28 AM   #3
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looked up the specs for your camper and under options it lists "Second AC 13500 BTU in bedroom" The part about a control do not know. Check with the manufacturer of your current AC and the brand you want to install and ask what would be needed to make it work.

The easiest way would be to install a 13500 or whatever size you want that has the control's on the AC itself.

Our camper is a 2009 and it has 2 AC's 13500 in the front and 15000 in the main part. Both have control boards. The rear control board also controls the furnace. There is a 5 button CCC - Comfort Control Center Thermostat. But this is my camper yours will probably be different.

Sorry I could not be more specific.
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Old 07-27-2022, 12:03 PM   #4
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Just speaking about my Rv, if I install a second A/C, it does not connect to the central venting system. It is a stand alone A/C that only dumps the air into the bedroom where it would be installed.
Your setup may be different.
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Old 07-27-2022, 04:34 PM   #5
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Thanks everyone.

I pulled down the surround on the roof vent and it does have a duct that connects it to the other system. I'm not sure why that is.. if they're meant to blow into the same ducting system or if the AC unit is meant to block off the duct and then just blow directly in that room.. Right now, the opening is covered by aluminum tape.

Think I should do a ducted one?
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Old 07-27-2022, 06:10 PM   #6
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HVAC air flow is a science. Supply and returns (returns are usually sized 25% larger than supply for moisture evaporation) must work together. RV's, I think are closed systems, meaning all air movement is circulated internally. I am of the belief that if you were to feed air from the 2nd unit into ducting that was opposed to the other AC outflow - that might be counterproductive for circulation and moisture issues. Only my 2 cents. Perhaps an HVAC technician with RV experience would chime in here.
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Old 07-27-2022, 06:32 PM   #7
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When you pulled the vent surround were there any other wires there besides the power wires? If you install one with a stand alone thermostat than you would have to pull those wires.

On ours the front AC and the rear AC are all on the same ductwork. If the front AC is off you can still feel a small amount of air from the rear AC. They share the same thermostat control but the front has a temperature sensor on the wall. The thermostat has control's for both AC's - on ,off. and fan speed as well as heat.

Just saying that is how mine is yours could be different.
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Old 07-27-2022, 07:34 PM   #8
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Dan, Have you ever run just the front AC and checked to see if you can feel any air flow down stairs on those vents?
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Old 07-27-2022, 08:13 PM   #9
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Yes. Just like the front you can still feel some at the back. With the second AC being a option if you did not get it the rear would have to cool the front also. This is the first one we have had with the second AC so it may be it is not supposed to be connected. But if the owner added the second one later they would be connected. It is probably 30 feet from one AC to the other. Sometime when I get ambitious I have a endoscope and I may pull a vent down just to have a look.
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Old 07-29-2022, 10:57 AM   #10
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My camper has been pre-wired. There is a thermostat sensor in that room on the wall and the thermostat is a dual-zone. There is power there by the "future" second unit.

In the fuse panel, it's marked "Second AC"

I'm thinking that maybe I will go with the ducted unit. I'm hoping I can get the same interior kit as the main unit yet.
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Old 07-31-2022, 03:49 PM   #11
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I would think it's should be all plug and play. The hardest part will be cutting a hole in the roof.
Good Luck!
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Old 07-31-2022, 07:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopa98 View Post
I would think it's should be all plug and play. The hardest part will be cutting a hole in the roof.
Good Luck!

If he already has a roof vent over the bed, there shouldn't be any need to cut a hole. It will be there.
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Old 08-02-2022, 10:08 AM   #13
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It is.. I'll take down the vent shroud later today and post a picture of what I have.
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Old 08-20-2022, 06:49 PM   #14
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So.. a bit of a knee injury has slowed me down a bit. However. I took some pics today.

One side has a plastic duct covered by aluminum tape. The other side of the vent has insulation stuffed in a hole that's obviously cut out to recieve a duct.

I also included a pic of my thermostat. It is a dual zone w/heat (gas/electric) and AC support.

I do have the control board part number 8330b751 in my main AC. I don't need another control board in my new AC do I?

I purchased the 13,500BTU Coleman Mach AC unit and the Ducted (heat ready) interior kit along with the heat element (that room can get cool from time to time and I figured it would help). Picked up the AC unit, the interior kit, and the heating element for about $1150 from UnitedRV.

Let me know what you think. 20220820_151128.jpg20220820_151117.jpg20220820_150558.jpg
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Old 09-04-2022, 04:40 PM   #15
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So, I can't seem to get zone 2 to work. Anyone else have this issue?

When I bought the camper, I could push the zone button and get zone 2 indicated on the display. Now the zone button does nothing.
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Old 09-04-2022, 06:40 PM   #16
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Not sure if this applies to your specific thermostat, but this is what I found.


How Do I Reset An RV Comfort ZC Thermostat?
The first thing you should do when you have an RV Comfort ZC thermostat issue is to reset the unit. You can do so by following these steps.

Step One: Press 00 on the RV comfort ZC thermostat and hold it down for a few seconds.
Step Two: Turn the thermostat off.
Step Three: Turn off the circuit breaker or remove the fuse
Step Four: Wait 5 minutes to let any ambient charge in the capacitors dissipate.
Step Five: After 5 minutes turn the breaker back on or reinsert the fuse.
Step Six: Wait for another 5 minutes for the system to fully power up.
Step Seven: Move the switch to the “Cool” setting and make sure the temperature is set low enough to activate.
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Old 09-05-2022, 06:32 PM   #17
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I don't have a "00" button i saw those instructions online but they didn't make sense.
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Old 09-06-2022, 08:59 AM   #18
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Not sure what brand Ac you have but on our Dometic ac's both front and rear both have control boards but the front ac and the rear ac and the furnace all are controlled by the rear control board. You may check with the manufacture of your ac to see if you need a different control board to run a 2 zone 2 ac system.
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Old 09-07-2022, 04:30 PM   #19
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Thanks. It's a Coleman. I've checked and have a two zone control board in the main unit. The new one has a single zone board but I suspect that's all that's needed since it connects to the main unit (a 15k Coleman Mach).

When we first bought the camper you could change the zone (even though it didn't have the second system installed). Now the button doesn't do anything.

I'll have to see if I can find different instructions to reset the system.


Thanks for your help. Really appreciate it.
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