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06-02-2015, 08:04 PM
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#1
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New Camper
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 3
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Converter Location
Hi All
I have a 2011 ZT-260-BL Zinger and i'm trying to find out where the converter is located.
My problem is that the converter is over-charging my battery and has boiled it, so i want to do some testing on the converter.......just need to find out where it is located.
Thxs.
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06-02-2015, 08:12 PM
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#2
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 679
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It's usually a brown panel surface mounted on a vertical surface. Lots of little holes. Push on the top, and it should spring open. You'll see circuit breakers (your 120 vac circuits) on one side, auto-type fuses (12V circuits) on the other. You will see a fan. Will probably be on a non-sliding wall on the driver's side, near the point where shore power comes in.
__________________
Marty and Martha
2015 Z-1 211RD
2012 Nissan Titan
Dalzell SC
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06-02-2015, 08:44 PM
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#3
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New Camper
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 3
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Okay so I found it....thx-u
So my questions is this,
I had it plugged into 120V for 2 days.....I noticed my battery making a little noise so I put my ear to it and it sounded like it was just bubbling like a soda can.......The next day there was water in the bottom of the battery tray and now my battery isn't holding a charge.
So is my converter done? I have checked the 40amp fuses and they look fine.....how do I test my converter and prove that its not self-regulating to keep my battery charged.
I know I need a new battery but I want to confirm the operation of my converter before a wreck a new battery.
thxs for your help to this........
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06-02-2015, 08:56 PM
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#4
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 679
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I'll defer to others for the specifics. A converter will typically put out three levels of voltage, for high, low, and trickle. You are correct, in that a charged battery should cause the converter to automatically step down as the battery is charged. We have for two years now just kept our camper plugged in 24/7, and let the converter take care of the battery.
A new battery, properly connected (be careful, black isn't always negative), will initially draw the highest voltage. Then it should step down quickly if it is fully charged. If your battery starts bubbling soon after hook up, or after time to charge up, then the converter is not stepping down. It should never get to that point.
Other members here: What voltages should Brett see initially, and on down to trickle?
__________________
Marty and Martha
2015 Z-1 211RD
2012 Nissan Titan
Dalzell SC
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06-02-2015, 09:18 PM
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#5
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 679
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I just found the three voltages: 14.4VDC "bulk,", 13.6 VDC "absorption", and 13.2 "float," modes. To us laymen, we would call that high, low, and trickle.
__________________
Marty and Martha
2015 Z-1 211RD
2012 Nissan Titan
Dalzell SC
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06-02-2015, 09:46 PM
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#6
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New Camper
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 3
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Thx u again Marty!
Guess I'll go purchase a new battery here and monitor it for the day and see how the converter reacts.
Get info...thxs for sharing!
Side note: If my converter is done......should I just replace with an OEM unit or is there a better converter to go with.
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06-02-2015, 09:54 PM
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#7
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 679
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Glad to help. You can also monitor the state of charge of the battery with one of those little "floating balls" bulb/glass tools they have where they sell batteries. Typically under $5.
As to replacement, I would suggest OEM as a minimum, staying at, or going slightly above, amperage capacity. From my internet surfing, that's how they're rated. Unless you have some MAJOR modification in mind, say multiple batteries, inverters, solar panels and the ultimate boondocking setup. Good luck!
__________________
Marty and Martha
2015 Z-1 211RD
2012 Nissan Titan
Dalzell SC
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06-03-2015, 06:55 AM
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#8
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett2011
Thx u again Marty!
Guess I'll go purchase a new battery here and monitor it for the day and see how the converter reacts.
Get info...thxs for sharing!
Side note: If my converter is done......should I just replace with an OEM unit or is there a better converter to go with.
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In your case the easiest and cheapest solution is to just replace the converter board inside the power distribution box. Cost less than $200. No need to replace the entire box. To switch to a different brand or model would probably mean disconnection 100% of the wires (both 120 VAC and 12 VDC), ripping out the distribution box, then modifying the cabinet to accept a different sized unit and getting everything wired back correctly. It might be a different story if you had a stand-alone converter, then just 5 wires and a few screws.
__________________
Larry Day
Texas Baptist Men-Retiree Builders member since '01
13 Silverado 3500HD D/A, 2wd CCSB srw, custom RKI bed
11 Cruiser CF32MK
https://www.picturetrail.com/dayle1
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06-03-2015, 08:47 AM
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#9
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: LA
Posts: 953
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Larry is right , we just changed ours out. Look for number on inside of panel,like wf55 or whatever. Simple disconnect of 120 wire and then 12v wires and replace circuit board only. You can check voltage in and voltage out, should be about 120 volts ac in and 12 v dc out...
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07 Cruiser 30sk
06 F350 KR PS CC SRW
...Wish we were camping...
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06-03-2015, 08:50 AM
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#10
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: LA
Posts: 953
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Remember to check water level in battery and fill to proper level often every couple months or so.
__________________
07 Cruiser 30sk
06 F350 KR PS CC SRW
...Wish we were camping...
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